Climbing at Mt Coolum

Late in the week the wet weather set in, and my camping and rock climbing trip up to Brooyar was abandoned. Not wanting to let a free weekend go to waste, instead we ventured to nearby Mt Coolum to try some cave climbing.

While climbing in caves offers protection from the rain, the climbing tends to be overhanging and very, very tough. Not having any other choice we decided to set off up one of the very few 'easy' climbs to warm up and get accustomed to the type of rock and style of climbing.

We set off up 'Dave', a steep but short grade 20. After sending the tough but manageable route we looked for our next effort. We settled on 'Crazy Horny', a 10m grade 25. After a long time spent working the route, slowly making progress up and through the overhanging climbing, I ran out of energy / strength / endurance at the second to last bolt and had to admit defeat. It felt good to make progress on a climb far outside my grade, and I think another few attempts would have it sent.

Chris made it to the anchors after a lot of hard work, we called it a day as the sun was getting low in the sky and made our way back home for a huge, much needed feast.

We returned the next morning for another attempt at a different route. We had eyed off 'Beers, Boobs and Jerky' (24) the day before, and with no-one else around I jumped on.

It was another very steep route that involved lots of heel hooks and desperate lunges to big holds. A hard, overhanging, sharp and sweaty climb, but eventually I made it to the anchors. It was great to send such a high grade (for me) but it was definitely not a clean climb, with plenty of rests and aborted attempts. Still, I was pretty happy to make it to the anchors, and with my hands taking a beating the day before I was content to call it a day.

Chris was up next to work through the route.

He sent the route and decided to have a bit of fun on the way down after clean the hardware off the route.

Although I climbed less than 30m the whole weekend my body felt every metre. It was great to finally visit Mt Coolum, and it is an amazing place to climb, with fantastic rock, friendly people, the physically toughest climbing I have attempted. Being only 90 minutes from Brisbane I will definitely return to get upside down again!!

Another great weekend, more photos here

Paparazzi Cliffs repeat

It would be Damon's last chance to climb in Australia for a while, so we returned to the site of our original wilderness adventure  for another shot at some routes. It was another brilliant winters morning in South East Queensland as Damon, Tony and I made our way back to the rock.

As we arrived at the Paparazzi Cliff we encountered 'H.B', one of the original developers of the area. We was chopping carrots and re-ring gluing bolts on his original lines, leaving him to his work we jumped on the nearby 'Across the Path of Lichen', a 50m+ grade 18.

Damon went first, the delicate climbing not made easier by the difficult task of having to spot the wall camouflaged line of bolts that zig zagged up the cliff. Up the wall, stepping out and right around the lip of a cave, then a short section to the finish. A very enjoyable climb with a great view at the top.

Damon and Tony climbed another route, but we ran out of time before I could try my ascent. Not wanting to get benighted (again) we left as the golden sun was low in the sky, making it back to the main path with a few minutes to spare.

We finished the day in a grassy field, exhausted from the long hot day, watching the scarlet sun set behind the Great Dividing Range. A suitable farewell...

More photos here

Climbing at Mt Greville

After a great day climbing last visit, I was keen to get back to Mt Greville and try some of the other walls in the area.

It was another stunning day in South East Queensland, we traveled under cold and crisp clear blue skies all the way past Moogerah Dam to Mt Greville.

Starting up the tourist track, Damon (recovering from the flu) and I detoured past 'Springfield Wall', checking out some pretty serious overhung climbing, before heading further up the Waterfall Gorge trail. Descending into the gully then making out way upstream we passed the great 'Wizards Sector' wall before arriving at the 'Grey Wall'.

After orientating ourselves we climbed 'Pick Pocket' (16) as a warm up. The climbing on tiny edges and shallow pockets was made harder by the frigid rock sucking the warmth from our fingertips. The slightly dubious strength of rock didn't help either. Nevertheless we finished the climb and looked around for another.

After an aborted attempt on 'Ain't No Sunshine' (18) we decided to head back to 'Little Springfield' and try ourselves on the shorter, harder routes.

We climbed 'Maggies Dummy Spit' (19) but could not find the anchors, instead having to traverse the semi-detached pillar and scrambling out the top.

By that stage it was getting late, and as the quality of climbs was a bit of a let down we decided to call it a day.

We detoured back home around the southern side of Moogerah Dam, briefly stopping to take in the amazing sunset. Great to be back out exploring...

More photos here