Camping at Northern NSW

Heading out on Boxing day full of xmas cheer, Chris and I headed south-west into New South Wales for a few days of camping, hiking and kayaking.

We arrived at Urbenville just after lunch and decided to hike to a new climbing spot that afternoon while the weather was fine. The route descriptions were pretty good and we followed faint motorcycle tracks before a step, ferny section lead steeply up to the rock wall. Kicking away the leeches that had attached themselves to Chris' shoes, we checked out the routes and rested before heading back down the hill.

Once back at the car we decided to go for a swim at Tooloom Falls, and wash away the sweat and grime. We scrambled down the rock cliff and had a great swim in and around the falls. Noting the the adjacent camp site was full, we drove in to town to have dinner at the local pub, and watched the day turn to night.

That night, we decided to explore Yabbra State Forest a little more, to try and find a suitable place to camp for the night. We drove past 'Battery Hill' a small section of rock we planned to climb the next day. Soon the narrow track became overgrown, and before long I was driving through metre high grass unsure of where the track continued. Sticking to the mountain we found the track again, following it all the way around to where we started from! Feeling tired and not seeing any other suitable sights during the day, we parked on the other side of the waterfall on an old rocky road and set our tents up as best we could.

No sooner had we finished then the rain kicked it. We hastily climbed into our tents, tried to get comfy on the rocky ground, and fell asleep to the rain getting heavier. It continued through the night, by morning it had stopped but it was clear that we wouldn't be climbing that day.

Plan B involved driving a little further south to a place called Paddys Flat, nestled on the banks of the upper Clarence River. It was the site of many previous camping adventures, and an epic winter kayak trip earlier in the year.

After an early lunch and setting up camp to dry a few things out, Chris and I set off down the Clarence River. The recent rain had stirred up the water, but it was pleasant paddling downstream. We navigated the small rapids without issue, but as we got further downstream the skies darkened.

Keeping in mind we would need to paddle all the way upstream back to camp, we turned around after a few hours and started back. Soon after, the skies opened up. Lightly at first, but the rain soon grew heavy. The river swelled a little, and it was noticeably harder paddling against the extra current.

The rain eased as we arrived back to camp, we set about starting a fire and drying things as best we could. At least our tents were properly pitched so our bedding was dry. The fire was soon blazing, and we say around in the light drizzle enjoying a beer and a hot dinner. Night came and with it more rain, so we retired to our tents for the night, a lot more comfortable on a bed of thick grass beneath.

It was hot and humid the next morning as we packed up camp, still no climbing to be done due to the rain, so as we started back to Brisbane we made a slight detour for one last hike. We stopped at Mt Maroon (the site of many great adventures) and started up the steep summit track. We made good time and arrived at the top after lunch, drenched under the hot sun. It was very windy at the top, so after a moment to enjoy the vista and a short rest we started back down.

A few hours later we were back home, another great trip away. It was a shame that we couldn't get any climbing in, but we more than made up for it with some great hiking and kayaking. A trip to be repeated soon.

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Paparazzi Cliffs repeat

It would be Damon's last chance to climb in Australia for a while, so we returned to the site of our original wilderness adventure  for another shot at some routes. It was another brilliant winters morning in South East Queensland as Damon, Tony and I made our way back to the rock.

As we arrived at the Paparazzi Cliff we encountered 'H.B', one of the original developers of the area. We was chopping carrots and re-ring gluing bolts on his original lines, leaving him to his work we jumped on the nearby 'Across the Path of Lichen', a 50m+ grade 18.

Damon went first, the delicate climbing not made easier by the difficult task of having to spot the wall camouflaged line of bolts that zig zagged up the cliff. Up the wall, stepping out and right around the lip of a cave, then a short section to the finish. A very enjoyable climb with a great view at the top.

Damon and Tony climbed another route, but we ran out of time before I could try my ascent. Not wanting to get benighted (again) we left as the golden sun was low in the sky, making it back to the main path with a few minutes to spare.

We finished the day in a grassy field, exhausted from the long hot day, watching the scarlet sun set behind the Great Dividing Range. A suitable farewell...

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Paparazzi Cliffs

After hiking to find some new climbing spots on Mt Maroon a week ago, I returned with a friend and some climbing gear to tick off some new routes.

Another beautiful Autumn day, with a chill in the wind to remind me that winter is on its way. Cooler weather will make for better climbing, but the shorter days require additional planning as we soon found out.

We made it to the Paparazzi Cliffs mid morning and set off up the wall. The climbing was enjoyable, with plenty of thin climbing on small feet and hold holds to test our confidence in the strength of the rock. The climbing was further tested by having to constantly stop and look for the next bolt, well camouflaged against the lichen covered rock.

Moving on to the next climb presented more problems, with so many routes in close proximity there were a multitude of bolts to choose from, not knowing which was the correct line to take. Additional bolting had been done since the guide was released with new variant sections appearing making way finding especially difficult.

Still, it was a great day of climbing on some good rock in a beautiful part of the world. With the end of the day approaching I made it to the top of a 50m climb and stopped to sit and take in the amazing afternoon views.

I was back on the ground as the sun was getting lower in the sky, and we started back down the rocky slopes hoping to make it back to the trail before night overtook. We failed.

We made the mistake of aimlessly heading towards lower ground from the cliffs, hoping to pick up the distinct track further along the way. As the scrub was fairly light it was easy to miss the faint tracks, and the rock cairns were easily passed without noticing. Once dark it was nearly impossible to pick up where we should have been.

It was an almost moonless night, and under the canopy of the forest it soon became pitch black around us. Luckily I had a head torch and a hand held GPS, we slid and scrambled down shin deep thick leaf litter, loose scree slopes, down deep ravines, through sections of spiky lantana and too many spider webs to mention, getting turned around endlessly trying to navigate the several gullies we had to cross, all the while carrying backpacks full heavy equipment in low light. It was not a pleasant experience!

Eventually my GPS received some signals through the trees overhead and we found our way back to the exit of the ravine and the continuation of the trail. From there is was a not so simple walk following a sporadic fire trail, and finally through a field of waist high grass until we came out at the beginning of the north east tourist track.

Two and a half hours after we set of, we were back in the car and relieved to be heading home. Tired and sore, but thankful to be safe, we drove back to Brisbane pretty happy with how the day panned out. We will return, and this time remembering to plot a lot more way points on my GPS to ensure a trouble free return trip. Another adventure for the books.

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Exploring Mt Maroon and Northern NSW

After doing some amazing climbing recently I was determined to discover some more places to climb on Mt Maroon. Armed with some rough guides I set off to explore on a beautiful Autumn morning in southern Queensland.

Diverging from start of the north east summit track I came across a rough fire break, and continued along this until it finished at a steep gully. After scrambling past the gully I turned to head towards the face of the mountain while continuing further west. All the while gaining ground, I hiked further into the scrub, following faint tracks when they appeared. Finding a small featured wall I stopped for a quick bite to eat, looking out of an amazing view of the countryside.

I continued up some more terraces until I found what I was looking for, Paparazzi Cliffs. A handful of bolted climbing routes near some great looking caves. I sat down under the crisp clear blue sky and relaxed in the sun.

Heading back I stayed close the base of the mountain, finding more interesting rock formations, took the long way down the deep gully and returned once again to the tourist track. It was getting late in the day, but I started up the main hiking trail, veering off track half way along to find 'Viewpoint Buttress'. Orientating myself for a return visit with climbing gear, I surveyed some of the trad routes in the late afternoon as the skies turned grey.

Enjoying the day and not wanting to return to Brisbane right away, I drove to Urbenville as night closed in and stopped at the only pub in town. Tired and hungry after the long day I sat down with a large hot pizza and proceeded to finish it easily.

Back on the road and I kept driving south-west, further into northern NSW until I arrived at a favourite camp site of mine. Nestled on the banks of the upper Clarence River is a small patch of flat grassy land called Paddy's Flat. I arrived well into the pitch black night as the storm clouds had covered the sky.

Getting my priorities straight I cracked a beer, got a fire going, then set up my tent. I settled into my camp chair in front of the flames, in the drizzle, drank beer and listened to music until the last of the logs collapsed into embers.

It lightly rained throughout the night, and I woke in the misty early morning to a slightly damp temp. I brewed a fresh pot of coffee, had some breakfast and packed up my car.

Wanting to continue the adventure, after driving north through the Yabbra state forest I turned off towards Killarney. With all of the overnight rain I thought it would be fun to drive along the Condamine River Road, a 18km stretch of dirt road that crosses the Condamine River fourteen times. The rocky bottomed river was no more than 30cm at its deepest sections, not a problem for the patrol. It was still a very nice drive along the border of Queensland and NSW, the river in parts flanked by the steep sides the Koreelah National Park.

From there on it was a pleasant but windy and rainy drive back home to Brisbane. A fantastic weekend in a beautiful part of the world. I'll be back for more soon.

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Phaedra

It started a few months ago after some friends and I tackled the classic route 'Ruby of India' on Mt Maroon. Rather than hike back down the trail we instead abseiled off a nearby anchor, lowering down a thrilling section of the eastern face. What is this route, and can we climb it?

Detailed information of the route was hard to find, but eventually we came across a decent description of 'Phaedra', a 120m grade 22 M1 climb. A mixture of trad, sport and aid climbing on a very exposed section of rock. It sounded like quite an adventure and the seed was planted to attempt an ascent.

The day arrived, a perfect autumn Saturday. Under clear skies and cool weather, Chris and I left Brisbane and drove south to Mt Maroon. Arriving early morning we hiked to the top the mountain, set up an abseil, and descended the route to determine the where protection was available, and to get an idea of where to create trad anchors for the ascent.

We took our time to inspect the line, knowing that the climbing would be exposed and run out, and gear placement would be sparse in sections. Once on the ground we geared up, and started our attempt. Chris would lead all three pitches, being the stronger climber and having the knowledge and skills for trad climbing that I lack.

The first pitch was grade 19, made harder by the thin ropes twisting upon themselves, making it harder to feed the rope out as Chris was climbing. It was slow going while I tried to remedy this, and eventually I sorted it out without incident. Not a great start to what was already tough climbing.

Chris created a trad anchor using some small nuts and a cam in a thin crack, and it was my turn to climb. Ascending on top rope is less challenging physically and mentally, but the climbing was still tough and enjoyable, I soon met up with Chris at the belay.

The second pitch, grade 20, began with little protection available. A fall here would send Chris crashing into me, to lessen the risk I couldn't stand on the small ledge at the belay, instead hanging off my harness clove hitched to the makeshift anchor. It was my first time on a hanging belay, which could have been terrifying (especially seeing the size of the nuts standing between me, gravity, and the ground a long way below me) but I was enjoying every minute.

With steely determination Chris climbed higher, breathing a sigh of relief when he was able to clip a quickdraw into an old piton wedged under the small roof below the second permanent anchors. Over the roof and Chris was safely attached to the belay station and I was climbing again.

I climbed the corner section, enjoying the crimping, smearing, bridging and jamming moves up and around the arete. I arrived to the roof where some fun moves took me to the top of the second pitch. I was relieved to clip my safety tether to some large stainless steel bolts drilled into the cliff, took in some water and chocolate and began to belay Chris on the third and final pitch.

Again the start offered little protection, to Chris's credit he didn't falter and after more run out climbing he arrived at the bolt ladder. Imagine four bolts drilled into an overhanging featureless wall about 10m high, 100m above the ground. This was the 'aid' section, unclimbable without the use of nylon ladder. Lacking one, we improvised using quickdraws and short pieces of nylon slings. Reaching up to the bolt to clip a quickdraw, then grabbing the newly placed gear, pulling up, standing and reaching as high as possible to clip the next bolt, and repeat. Using slings as foot and hand holds Chris eventually made it over and disappeared from view.

He had reached the crux (grade 22, run out). A steep, featureless headwall, with three bolts very spaced out which would require climbing on impossibly thin holds, 110m about the ground. Any mistake here would send him falling far below the overhanging bolt ladder section he had just ascended.

Slowly I fed rope out, further and further as he continued to climb. Suddenly a yell and a scream, it took me a moment to realize it was in joy rather than anguish, he had made it!

It was my turn, and I started up another steep corner. The climbing was precarious and thrilling, and I eventually arrived at the bolt ladder. This was conquered with a lot of sweat and hard work, one handed pull ups while trying to get my feet on any holds I could find, while reaching to try and grab the next bolt. Lots of fun, with a pretty incredible view below.

Past the last bolt I found a nice jug just at arms reach, I pulled up and a few moves later I found myself on the headwall we had abseiled over six hours earlier in the day. With the end in view I started the final section. Fingertips searching for any leverage available, the thinnest of holds for hands and feet. Slowly, with a few false starts, I climbed. The last few metres gave way to some better holds, and a few moves later I was standing at the top!

Phaedra had been conquered! Chris and I were ecstatic to have ascended such a challenging and amazing route. We sat down, ate some well deserved chocolate, drank some water, and took in the phenomenal view in the late afternoon golden sun.

With light starting to fade we packed our bags and made our way back down the mountain with rubbery legs but feeling elated. The blood red sunset eventually gave way to dark, we arrived back at my car and cracked a cold beer to celebrate our achievement.

It was extremely satisfying to tick off 'Phaedra', easily one of the top climbing highlights in my life. Now to find another project!

More photos here