Detailed information of the route was hard to find, but eventually we came across a decent description of 'Phaedra', a 120m grade 22 M1 climb. A mixture of trad, sport and aid climbing on a very exposed section of rock. It sounded like quite an adventure and the seed was planted to attempt an ascent.
The day arrived, a perfect autumn Saturday. Under clear skies and cool weather, Chris and I left Brisbane and drove south to Mt Maroon. Arriving early morning we hiked to the top the mountain, set up an abseil, and descended the route to determine the where protection was available, and to get an idea of where to create trad anchors for the ascent.
We took our time to inspect the line, knowing that the climbing would be exposed and run out, and gear placement would be sparse in sections. Once on the ground we geared up, and started our attempt. Chris would lead all three pitches, being the stronger climber and having the knowledge and skills for trad climbing that I lack.
The first pitch was grade 19, made harder by the thin ropes twisting upon themselves, making it harder to feed the rope out as Chris was climbing. It was slow going while I tried to remedy this, and eventually I sorted it out without incident. Not a great start to what was already tough climbing.
Chris created a trad anchor using some small nuts and a cam in a thin crack, and it was my turn to climb. Ascending on top rope is less challenging physically and mentally, but the climbing was still tough and enjoyable, I soon met up with Chris at the belay.
The second pitch, grade 20, began with little protection available. A fall here would send Chris crashing into me, to lessen the risk I couldn't stand on the small ledge at the belay, instead hanging off my harness clove hitched to the makeshift anchor. It was my first time on a hanging belay, which could have been terrifying (especially seeing the size of the nuts standing between me, gravity, and the ground a long way below me) but I was enjoying every minute.
With steely determination Chris climbed higher, breathing a sigh of relief when he was able to clip a quickdraw into an old piton wedged under the small roof below the second permanent anchors. Over the roof and Chris was safely attached to the belay station and I was climbing again.
I climbed the corner section, enjoying the crimping, smearing, bridging and jamming moves up and around the arete. I arrived to the roof where some fun moves took me to the top of the second pitch. I was relieved to clip my safety tether to some large stainless steel bolts drilled into the cliff, took in some water and chocolate and began to belay Chris on the third and final pitch.
Again the start offered little protection, to Chris's credit he didn't falter and after more run out climbing he arrived at the bolt ladder. Imagine four bolts drilled into an overhanging featureless wall about 10m high, 100m above the ground. This was the 'aid' section, unclimbable without the use of nylon ladder. Lacking one, we improvised using quickdraws and short pieces of nylon slings. Reaching up to the bolt to clip a quickdraw, then grabbing the newly placed gear, pulling up, standing and reaching as high as possible to clip the next bolt, and repeat. Using slings as foot and hand holds Chris eventually made it over and disappeared from view.
He had reached the crux (grade 22, run out). A steep, featureless headwall, with three bolts very spaced out which would require climbing on impossibly thin holds, 110m about the ground. Any mistake here would send him falling far below the overhanging bolt ladder section he had just ascended.
Slowly I fed rope out, further and further as he continued to climb. Suddenly a yell and a scream, it took me a moment to realize it was in joy rather than anguish, he had made it!
It was my turn, and I started up another steep corner. The climbing was precarious and thrilling, and I eventually arrived at the bolt ladder. This was conquered with a lot of sweat and hard work, one handed pull ups while trying to get my feet on any holds I could find, while reaching to try and grab the next bolt. Lots of fun, with a pretty incredible view below.
Past the last bolt I found a nice jug just at arms reach, I pulled up and a few moves later I found myself on the headwall we had abseiled over six hours earlier in the day. With the end in view I started the final section. Fingertips searching for any leverage available, the thinnest of holds for hands and feet. Slowly, with a few false starts, I climbed. The last few metres gave way to some better holds, and a few moves later I was standing at the top!
With light starting to fade we packed our bags and made our way back down the mountain with rubbery legs but feeling elated. The blood red sunset eventually gave way to dark, we arrived back at my car and cracked a cold beer to celebrate our achievement.
It was extremely satisfying to tick off 'Phaedra', easily one of the top climbing highlights in my life. Now to find another project!
More photos here
