Puerto Iguazu, Argentina

I awoke before dawn (been a while since that has occurred) and crossed the border into Argentina. While the Brazilian side gives you an overview of the falls, the Argentinian side allows you to get much closer.

I arrived to the park and made my way straight out to ´The Devils Throat´. It involved catching a small train to a steel walkway that ran a couple of hundred metres out over the swollen river, until it finished at a small platform looking straight down into the abyss.

If I was blown away yesterday then I don´t know the words to describe the feeling of being out there, so close to the thunder of the falls. It is staggering....

After returning to the main park I walked the upper and lower trails, winding my way along the falls, in awe of the amount of water that flows through the Iguazu river.

I missed the last train out to ´The Devils Throat´ so I missed the sunset on the Argentinian side. Not a problem, I was well and truly satisfied spending the day at such an amazing place.

Definitely a world wonder, not to be missed....

More photos here

Buenos Aires, Argentina

I managed to make it through the 40 hour bus ride from El Calafate to Buenos Aires without too difficulty, and arrived early Sunday morning to the 'Paris of South America'. For starters, while not hot, BA is a lot warmer than where I have come from which is a great start. I stayed in the San Telmo district, an old neighbourhood with old buildings, cobblestone streets and lots of broken glass. A short walk to La Boca (home of the Boca Jrs football club) and Puerto Madero (a new upmarket waterfront area) and an easy subway ride to Palermo (home of the rich) it was an ideal location to check out the city.

I spent most of my time wandering the busy streets, going to museums, gardens, planetariums and finally finding some cafe coffee that wasn't Nescafe Instant served in a cup.

There are plenty of parks to be found and most areas have museums and other interesting places so it has been easy to keep busy. I'm making the most of my days, although my fellow travellers stick to a more nocturnal cycle, their 'days' don't end until 7 AM in the morning when they come home from clubs.



And the night life? Anyone who knows me well could tell you that going to hip-hop / RnB / dance clubs etc isn't really my idea of a good night, but there is some fun to be had regardless. If I stayed longer I'm sure I could find something to suit my tastes, but to be honest the night life of Buenos Aires hasn't really captured me. I think with a close group of friends it would be a lot more fun, one of the downsides to travelling solo...

With the days getting cooler I am continuing my journey further north along the west coast of the continent. Next stop Uruguay.

More photos here

Perito Moreno glacier, El Calafate, Argentina

I left Puerto Natales in Chile and made my way to the Argentinian city of El Calafate. A small town with only one real draw-card, but it is a good one. The 34km long, 250 km² glacier Perito Moreno. The next day I set off on the 'Big-Ice' trek. I arrived to overcast dreary skies but the sight of the enormous glacier was astounding! The ice-bridge that occasionally forms when the ice advances to the shores had recently collapsed, the remnants of the natural destruction was still visible.

After spending an hour walking around the boarwalk overlooking the glacier, I took a small boat and crossed Lago Argentino to the far shore. From there it was a one hour walk along the north face of the glacier until we came to a spot where we could access the ice.

Once again it was time to 'crampon up', I wish I could wear those things everywhere! We walked for the next four hours on the glacer while the sun came out from the clouds and brought out the amazing colours of the ice.

We stopped for lunch on the glacier in between navigating watery crevasses and small icy caves. At times it felt like being in a watery desert, the shape of the glacier resembling sand dunes in certain places.

All good things have to come to an end, and late in the afternoon we returned to the shore to catch the boat back to the awaiting bus. Sitting on the open top-deck admiring the last view of the glacier one last surprise was in store. Unknowing to me, a glass of whisky was included in the price! I had spent the day with an Irishman who couldn't drink(!) so I was lucky enough to have a double, chilled with a hefty chunk of glacial ice.... Pretty much a perfect day!

More photos here

Bariloche, Argentina. Pt 2

Taking things easy in Bariloche. I am staying in a great hostel and have met some nice people. I went out a few nights, did some more trekking and relaxing. Next stop, the Navimag ferry to Patagonia!

More photos here

Barioloche, Argentina. Pt 1

Needing a change of pace I crossed the border into Argentina and stopped at Bariloche. A medium sized town on the banks of lake Nahuel Haupi, it offers plenty of outdoor activies to offset the dozens of chocolate shops in town.

Feeling the need to get outdoors, I set off on a 8 hour trek through Parque Nacioal Nahuel Haupi. Starting at Lago Gutierrez, the first few hours took me through forrests, past lakes, all with the Patagonian Andes in the background. It is hard to tire of views like those...

Gradually the path steepend as I ascended to the site of Refugio Frey. Situated next to a small lake high in the mountains, the view from the huts are breathtaking! One of several refugios in the area, I am definitely regretting not bringing any camping gear with me. Maybe next time.

After lunch with a view, I continued on to the second part of the trek. The path dissapeared as I scrambled up and over rocks and boulders for the next several hours. Eventually the path returned as I came to Cerro Catedral, a ski resort during winter months. Scrambling down the winding dirt roads wasn't the greatest way to end a hike of such beauty but I finally arrived at the bottom very dusty but content.

More photos here