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I took Chris up 'Zeitgeist' (17) on Mt Tibrogargan, getting in a nice fun multi-pitch climb while the weather was good.

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Banished for Infidelity

More climbing in the early new year. Marie and I made our way back to Mt Tibrogargan in the Glass House Mountains for some multi-pitch sport climbing. We decided on 'Banished for Infidelity', a 170m, six pitch climb.

It was a great climb, up nice slabby rock, through brittle and loose flaky sections, into a cramped roof that required stepping out around the corner and attempting an exhilarating crux over 70m off the ground.

The climbing got easier past the crux, and with a little path finding made it to the end of the climb. We were rewarded with a stunning view from an amazing vantage point. After a few snacks we started back down.

The abseil back down was tricky and frustrating, many times coming to the end of the rope (with multiple safety knots tied) and having the next belay station barely in reach. Add to that lots of branches and dead trees that required bypassing, not to mention sore feet and tried limbs, we were very happy to get our feet back on the ground.

Six and a half hours after we started climbing, we touched back down after successfully completing the route. Where we were immediately set upon by hundreds of mosquitoes so we made our way back to the car for some a nice cool drink and something to eat before heading back to Brisbane. It was a hot and humid summer day, and I drank over four litres of water during the climbing, sweating most of it out but worth every moment.

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Line of Credit redux

Marie, Tim and I ventured back to the Glass House Mountains to try some more multi-pitch climbing. We warmed up on 'Line of Credit' (70, grade 16) before the rain struck and we returned home.

The route has a great start to the second pitch, but the wasp's nest a few feet before the crux gave me something to think about while I committed to the next section. A great little fun climb.

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Troposphere and Line of Credit multi-pitch

After a few weekends of rainy weather I was able to make my way back to Mt Tibrogargan for some more multi-pitch climbing.

Along for the ride were Chris (from California) and Lukas (from Germany). Leaving Brisbane at dawn we arrived at Celestial Wall and started up the 115m, five-pitch 'Troposphere'. I led the first section (15), before Chris linked the shorter 2nd (17) and 3rd pitch (18).

Lukas led the 4th (15) and I finished the fifth pitch (16). It is a great route with lots of exposed climbing and some great moves. Stepping out around a massive rock slab, out into the void with nothing but a long, sheer drop below being the highlight of the section. At the top of the route be scrambled across to another rap station and made our way back to the base of the cliff.

With half the day gone we decided to finish up on 'Line of Credit', a two-pitch, 70m grade 16. Chris and Lukas led the first pitch, after belaying both of them I seconded the 35m to the rap station. I continued on and led the second pitch (16), another 35m route with some amazing moves. Tiring arms, traversing across another sheer drop while trying to find good feet and hand holds, taking the plunge and committing to getting across the void was exhilarating. Very addictive!

Rapping down at the end of the day was very satisfying, as were the two huge pizzas we devoured before heading home, tired but still riding the adrenaline high.

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Return to Zeitgeist

I travelled with Marie back to Mt Tibrogargan to (re)introduce her to multi-pitch climbing. After practising some techniques at Kangaroo Point the night before we tested ourselves on Zeitgeist, a great introduction to the joys of longer climbing.

We started up in sunshine, but as the day grew longer the clouds came in. We ascended the three pitches without any problems, and sat down in the caves for a lunch break as the skies darkened.

We explored the surrounding caves for a while then made our way back to the rap station to abseil down.

We got caught in a light shower as we descended but made it down without getting too wet. After a short 4WD detour (time to hose out the chassis again) and a pizza stop we returned to Brisbane, keen to return very soon and try some new climbs.

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Multi-pitch on Mt Tibrogargan

Every time I drive to the Glass House Mountains I get struck by the same feeling. Driving along a section of road, you round a bend and the towering Mt Tibrogragen comes in to view. From the road the south-eastern face looks like the head of a gorilla, and I always get the urge to climb and explore the exposed cliff faces seen from the road. Having only single-pitch experience I had avoided the longer climbs that the mountain offered, but today that was to change.

Leaving Brisbane before dawn we arrived to the base of Mt Tibrogargan not long after sunrise and made our way to ‘Desperation Wall’ to begin our climb. We set off under clear blue skies on ‘Zeitgeist’, a 120m multi-pitch grade. I led the first pitch, a 35m (17), then sat on a nice ledge and belayed Joel on his way up. We swapped lead with Joel climbing the second pitch, a 38m grade 13, then I finished the route by leading the final 45m grade 15 section. Not the most difficult climb, but the longest I had done by a great margin so I was happy to not exert myself too much and concentrate  on my multi-pitch technique.

Arriving at the top we scrambled up past the final bolts and rested in the shade of some caves. We enjoyed the stunning view and the impressive cave formations before heading back to the ledge to abseil back down. Not having too much previous experience in rappelling down my heart in my mouth as I leaned back over the edge of the cliff and lowered myself down.

It took a longer than expected to abseil all the way back down but I was more than happy to take our time and make sure we did it safely. As we climbed with two ropes we were able to rappel down in longer sections, but it was a lot harder to manage, especially as we had to pass some climbers ascending. A few tangled ropes and a dropped belay device later (luckily we had a spare) we were on the ground and ready to return home.

I was very happy to complete my first multi-pitch climb, and can’t wait to go back for more! And thanks to Joel for literally showing me the ropes.

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Climbing Mt Tibrogargan - Candy Mountain

Another day, another drive north to the Glass House Mountains to attempt some new climbs. After a small amount of muddy off roading along the back trails of Beerburrum state forest I met up with Chris, Justine, Lucas and Julie to climb Mt Tibrogargan.

We found Slider Wall after a decent hike, but with limited middle-grade routes and climbers already attempting what little was there we decided to find another cliff.

Eventually we came across Candy Mountain, nineteen freshly bolted routes along the North East side of Mt Tibrogargan. The cliff was covered in leaf litter and the rock was very suspect. More than once we had holds break off in our hands when attempting moves, and lots of small stones dislodged by our feet.

The dubious quality of the rock made some of the climbs harder then they should have been, but we managed a decent amount of climbs before calling it a day. I managed Lichen the Candy (17), Old Elvis (17), Papa Smurf (19) and Happy Pants (20) before finishing up.

We hiked back to the car park just in time as the excessive mosquito population began to attack us as the DEET wore off.

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