Tuesday, May 29, 2018

Yosemite Valley

Yosemite Valley.... Maybe the most beautiful and awe inspiring place I have ever been to?



If you haven't already done so, stop what you are doing and watch Valley Uprising. That might give you some idea of why this place has such a hold on me.

I had made it... Three and a half hours drive west from San Francisco, along endless almond plantations, into the park, following the winding roads, then all of a sudden you round a corner and...


Literally breathtaking.... I composed myself and continued along down into the heart of the Valley, unable to resist the urge to stop the car at every pull out, and stare in awe at the beauty that surrounded me.



I found a park and started to hike, eager to surround myself in the pine forests and towering granite walls. I started along Mirror Lake, the crisp air in my lungs, sublime views wherever I looked. I passed docile dear grazing among the trees, woodpeckers living up to their names, walking under the looming bulk of 'Half Dome'.





I spent the afternoon soaking in the utter beauty of the park, only starting to head back to the car as the light was fading. Camp fires smoke was hanging in the valley as I made my way back to the car, giving the trails a hazy and dream like look. What an arrival!





The campsites in the valley were full, so I had to head a bit further out and hope for the best. I found a free site just as it was getting dark, I set up my tent and stored all of my food in the bear cages and called it a night.

Waking in Yosemite was a dream come true, the morning light filtering through the pines, the crisp cold air a welcome changed from the mornings I've usually had while camping on this trip.




I drove back down to the valley and immediately started along the Upper Yosemite Falls hike. The trail switch-backed up a steep path alongside the Yosemite Falls, until I reached the stream above. The thawing winter snow had caused the waterfall to swell, the extra power only adding to the grandeur.





I had a few choices once I reached the top, I could hike east towards 'North Dome' for a better view across the valley to 'Half Dome', or I could turn west and make my way to the top of 'El Capitan'. The 900m sheer granite face is a rock climbers dream, my decision was easy.







 I continued through pine forests overlooking the valley, passing deer and frenetic squirrels as I went. I had the trail to myself until I reached the top of the monolith where I saw a trio packing gear into haul bags at the edge of the cliff.

Turns out that they were the support / film crew for the successful speed ascent of 'The Nose' earlier that morning. Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell had climbed the route in two hours and 10 minutes, a superhuman feat! (A week later they climbed it in under two hours...)

I found a comfy seat on some rocks and sat down for an hour to appreciate the view. I must have dozed off a little in the sun, but eventually I started back towards the falls. Reaching them a little while later I continued east a little further to spend the rest of the daylight at the Yosemite Point lookout.





I eventually hiked back down to the valley where I set off to find a place to stay of the night. Luckily there were still some camp sites available further out of the valley, I threw my tent up and crashed out.

Another crisp morning, I packed up and drove back down to the Valley. I had been unable to procure a permit to hike 'Half Dome', but I thought I'd at least hike to the base and get a good look before I had to leave.






Another stunning hike through granite, pine and along heavy waterfalls, closer and closer I got to Half Dome. My desire to summit the phenomenal piece of rock was increasing with every step, until I found myself at the bottom of the chains to the summit stuck in line behind timid hikers. There were no rangers in site, I took my chance and scrambled up the steep final section as fast as the crowd would allow.







Words can't describe the joy of being up there, it was a dream come true. A sat on the edge of eternity and hoped to never forget that moment. Maybe I'll be back one day to climb Half Dome, but until then I gazed out onto the valley below and breathed in the majesty, not wanting it to end.







Eventually I set off back down the rock, knowing it was a long hike back and several hours driving ahead of me. The walk back took several hours but it felt like nothing at all. Passing Nevada Falls, drinking in the cool, clean, alpine water, then finally back down into the valley and to my car.










It was sad to leave, I stopped at a few places on the way out to gaze at the rock, wanting to delay my departure as long as possible. As I finally left the park I stopped one last time at a viewpoint that looked back over the entire valley. A fitting end to my time in one of the most amazing places I've ever been.





I had to reach Orange County the next day, I decided to split up the drive and make as much distance as I could that night. It was late by the time I found a truck rest stop off the Californian 99 a little way outside of Tulare, I reclined the passenger side seat and tried to get some rest.

Many more photos here