It has been over three years since my last (mis)-adventure on the Clarence River, and repeating the trip with less... difficulties had been on my mind since I returned from Sydney.
Unfortunately my original partner couldn't make it, so I roped in a friend for another crack at kayaking the 27 km stretch of river from Paddys Flat to Hootens Road.
With the benefit of hindsight we had a few things in our favour. Attempting it during summer (longer days, warmer water) and using some sit-on kayaks that wouldn't flip and fill with water, I had a pretty good feeling about this trip.
Justin and I left Brisbane on Friday night, and after a quick bite to eat at the Rathdowney pub we arrived to Paddys Flat well into the night. The drive was uneventful, apart from sections of heavy fog which reduced visibility to only a few metres, and we were happy to find the camping area almost entirely devoid of people. We had the pick of the spots, we knocked off a few cold beers while we set up camp then turned in for the night.
It didn't rain overnight, but it was overcast when we woke and the ground was wet from a heavy dew. We had a slow breakfast, then shuffled my car downstream, returning back to Paddys Flat to begin the kayak adventure at 9:30 AM.
Only 100m downstream we had to get out and drag our kayaks, there wasn't enough water to cross under the bridge at Paddys Flat. We passed our only neighbour, fossicking for gold in the river bed.
Back in deeper water we hopped back on and were properly on our way. A little way along the river was the first set of small rapids, ones that I have kayaked many times. We couldn't make it through, the water levels were so low due to the long drought in the area that we had to get off any drag the kayaks past the shallow rocky sections. Not off to a good start, but an omen of things to come.
At least the kayaks weren't filling up with water at every bend....
An hour had passed and we had only gone three kilometres, it was shaping up to be a very long day. At that rate we wouldn't make it downstream until after dark, I was beginning to regret the slow start to the morning.
The only way was down so we persevered. Short sections of deep water we often broken up by unnavigable shallow sections of mossy and slippery river rocks. Every step had to be taken with care, otherwise a twisted ankle or worse would result.
The hours dragged on, sections of paddling, then dragging, trying to find ways along the banks to clear sections of river or through weed beds and slick rocks.
All the while the dark clouds gathered, the overcast skies helped keep the heat off, but eventually the skies broke and the temperature dropped as the heavy rain kicked in. Luckily we were on a long stretch of deep water so I was able to keep warm by paddling.
The hours dragged on, sections of paddling, then dragging, trying to find ways along the banks to clear sections of river or through weed beds and slick rocks.
All the while the dark clouds gathered, the overcast skies helped keep the heat off, but eventually the skies broke and the temperature dropped as the heavy rain kicked in. Luckily we were on a long stretch of deep water so I was able to keep warm by paddling.
The rain didn't last long, and by that stage we were on autopilot, knowing the every step, very stroke would take us closer to the end.
We came to a long section of shallow river, once more dragged the kayaks out, and kept heading downstream. It was appropriate that we weren't on the water when we finally stumbled across my 4wd, just on dusk. We changed into dry clothes, cracked a beers, racked the kayaks and heading back upstream to camp.
No sooner had we arrived that a mass pasta was on the boil and a solid fire was roaring, tired and sore we settling in around the warmth and enjoyed a few more well earned beers.
As the embers faded we retired for the night, and fell asleep exhausted in our tents.
The following morning the sun was out, the day quickly heating up with the humidity already high. Back to Brisbane, still not quite content with the trip, if the picks up some more water with a decent season of rain I'll have one more try...
More photos here
