Crack climbing at Frog Buttress

Time for a lesson in trad climbing! No bolts, just a selection of cams, nuts and hexes placed in rock cracks to protect falls. A perfect way to spend a Saturday!

We left Brisbane in the early hours of the morning and drove through the thick fog to Boonah, where we stopped at Mount French and made our way to the world class crag 'Frog Buttress'.

Our first route was 'Witch's Cauldron', a 12m grade 12 climb. Usually this grade would be trivial to climb, but being unaccustomed to crack climbing, hand and feet jamming, not to mention climbing on trad gear, it was a tough start to the day.

Luckily Chris (a seasoned trad climber from California) was there to teach the finer points of this style of climbing, and lead the routes to pre-place protection (cams, nuts, hexes) for us to use. After two leads of this route (including a fun climb up through a chimney) we moved on to something more challenging.

Our next stop was 'Smoked Banana', a 40m grade 17. Described as a classic Frog Buttress climb, Chris lead again (excellently placing protection) and then it was my turn to lead. Jamming up the first parallel cracks was easier this time, it was a little harder past the ledge where only a single crack continued.

I managed to jam my way up this, climbing higher until I reached an overhanging section, made possible to ascend by several chockstones jammed between two larger slabs.

Past this section the rock opened into a body crack. This is where things got interesting. I had been climbing with a small backpack containing a water bladder as by this point the rock was in full sun. I was already bathed in sweat, but the body crack was so small that I had to throw my backpack down to continue.

Even then, I could only barely fit into the crack. My shoulders and chest were wedged tight, I could barely move sideways, let alone gain leverage to get any higher. Running out of options and not wanting to bail on the climb, I went for it. Sucking in my chest, getting any leverage I could from my hands and feet, I rose slightly, then exhaled to jam my chest against the rock. I held! Again and I again I repeated this tactic, after a few feet the crack widened and I was able to smear my hands and feet on the rock to get some more purchase. Eventually I was free of the crack, and back again climbing. It was a short but exposed finish to the anchors, topping out over the rock I let out a yell and sat down in a pool of my own sweat to take in the view. An incredible climb!

We drove back to Boonah for an ice-coffee and lunch, before heading back to the crag in the late afternoon.

Feeling tired but still having a climb left in me, I opted to lead 'Shit Heap', a 10m grade 14. Climbing first I also placed all my own protection for the first time. I found the route difficult, the cracks either too big or more often too small for me hands. But I endured, placing cams where possible, gradually jamming higher and higher. I topped out, un-roped, and climbed down the 'stairs' behind the route to the bottom. Chris was up next to check my gear placements, and they passed the test! (I also rested on a cam for a little while when leading, quite unnerving when first putting all your weight on it).

I was done for the day, but Chris decided to climb 'Dave Mank's Electric Gorilla' a 20m grade 18-20. He cruised up the crack, showing us all how things are supposed to be done.

It was late in the day so we trekked back to the car park for a cold beer, sorted all the gear out and headed home.

An incredible Saturday, I couldn't ask for a better introduction to trad and crack climbing. Amazing rock, gorgeous views, I left tired but elated. I'll be back for more.....

More photos here

Banished for Infidelity

More climbing in the early new year. Marie and I made our way back to Mt Tibrogargan in the Glass House Mountains for some multi-pitch sport climbing. We decided on 'Banished for Infidelity', a 170m, six pitch climb.

It was a great climb, up nice slabby rock, through brittle and loose flaky sections, into a cramped roof that required stepping out around the corner and attempting an exhilarating crux over 70m off the ground.

The climbing got easier past the crux, and with a little path finding made it to the end of the climb. We were rewarded with a stunning view from an amazing vantage point. After a few snacks we started back down.

The abseil back down was tricky and frustrating, many times coming to the end of the rope (with multiple safety knots tied) and having the next belay station barely in reach. Add to that lots of branches and dead trees that required bypassing, not to mention sore feet and tried limbs, we were very happy to get our feet back on the ground.

Six and a half hours after we started climbing, we touched back down after successfully completing the route. Where we were immediately set upon by hundreds of mosquitoes so we made our way back to the car for some a nice cool drink and something to eat before heading back to Brisbane. It was a hot and humid summer day, and I drank over four litres of water during the climbing, sweating most of it out but worth every moment.

More photos here

Mt Tinbeerwah adventures

After spending a relaxing day recovering from the New Years Eve festivities, Chris and I decided to get a climb in at Mt Tinbeerwah while the rain held off. We didn't start climbing until midday, the heat and humidity drenching us with sweat before we even laid a hand on the rock!

We started up the 70m grade 17 multi-pitch 'String Theory'. Despite the climbs being a little run out it was a fun climb. We made it to the top exhausted and decided to call it a day.

Instead of hiking back to the base of the cliff to collect our gear, I decided to abseil down from the highest point on the lookout, by my guess about 110m.

I made it down to the first belay station, when I found out that I couldn't pull the ropes down from above! The anchors were set too far back from the cliff, and the surface friction of the rock made the rope impossible to move.

There I was, stuck 50m above the ground on a nice ledge, with no way back up. Luckily I was able to yell to Chris, and after a few mis-communications he untied the top ropes and threw them over the cliff.

That being done I was able to retie the knots and abseil down the remaining distance to rejoin Chris on the ground. I was never in any danger, but I should have assessed the situation a bit more before starting down. Lesson learnt, but the abseil was fantastic.

More photos here