Sunday, September 27, 2015

Climbing Mt Cooroora

One of the many benefits of staying up on the Sunshine Coast for work is being close to so many great climbing spots. I had hiked up Mt Cooroora at Pomona a few weeks ago but didn't have a chance to climb there.

The predicted thunder storms hadn't eventuated over the last few days so Chris and I returned to get on the rock while it was still dry. We decided to climb at 'The Shifting Slabs' which offered a few easy multi pitch climbs (grade 14-15) to warm up on and a decent hard climb to test our resolve.

I started up the rock and quickly realized we were in the wrong spot. Instead of an easy grade 15 to warm up on I found myself on a committing grade 22. At the limits of my leading ability I attempted the crux but was put off by the lichen covered rock crumbling under my feet, and nothing for my hands in reach. I left a stainless steel quick link on the wall and conceded defeat.

On second check of the guide we figured out we were on the wrong wall, so we packed our gear and hiked further around the mountain until we found the right section.


We went up the first pitch of the nearest climb as an easy as a warm up, then decided to try the hardest climb on the wall.
I went up the route expecting a tough climb, but sailed up easily to the anchors.


Once Chris and I were back on the ground it dawned on us that the climbs were listed in the guide in the wrong order!

Correctly orientated I finally set off up the 70m multi-pitch 'Meow'. The first pitch was a 35m grade 20, the second pitch being a 35m grade 14.

The climbing was delicate and balancy on very thin holds, my fingertips tender against the sharp cold rock. Every time I cranked off a hold I half expected the shallow rock to snap off under the force, but it held strong and before long I was at the anchors of the first pitch.

Chris joined me at the top of the first pitch one and we quickly debated climbing the second pitch as the distant skies darkened. The clouds and thunder had passed uneventfully during the day, and the second pitch was an easy grade 14, so I set off again on lead.


The second pitch was exposed, run out and very thin in sections. As the clouds gathered I thought about retreating, but decided to try to push through to finish the route and not leave any more gear on the wall. After a few heart-in-mouth sections I was at the second anchors. With the sound of thunder getting louder and bolts of lightning off in the distance it was time to get back to earth.



I set the ropes so Chris could abseil down from the anchors at pitch one, once he was safe on solid ground I quickly rapped down just as the rain began to fall. We quickly packed our gear and set off down the track as the rain intensified.

Half an hour later we were back in my car, mostly soaked but happy to have had luck with the weather. Another great day of climbing even with the frustrations of route finding. Plenty more to do at Mt Cooroora, I'll hopefully return soon to send some more routes.

Additional photos here