The Budawangs

The long awaited weekend got off to a great start when I found out that my friend's band from Brisbane were in Sydney that night for a gig! Definitely worth a few hours less sleep than usual, nothing that some strenuous exercise and coffee can't fix.

I was on the road before 6 AM, and it was past 10:30 AM before I arrived to Yadboro Sate Forest, the start of my journey into the Morton National Park. Stepping out from a warm car into the frigid weather at the Long Gully car park was a shock, my breath was instantly visible and my fingers began to redden and numb as I prepared my pack. I didn't take long to warm up as I left the shade of the clearing and began the long hike up the Kalianna ridge towards Castle Rock.

Even with a loaded backpack and cloudless skies it was pleasant walking the track in the full sun, the forceful wind providing additional cooling whenever I passed through an exposed section of track. The rocky features that marked a way-point for my hike were larger and more impressive than expected and it took a while until I stopped ascending and began to traverse the western flank of Castle Rock.

While extremely impressive, my goal that day was to pass that formation and header deeper into the park so I continued on towards the Nibelung between the Mt Nibelung and Mt Mooryan. This eventually led me down into a small gully where I refilled my water bottles from a nearby stream and stopped for a snack and some coffee. It was cool in the shade so I didn't spend too long resting there, I shouldered my pack and continued on. I soon passed out of the gully, gaining some elevation and finding myself aptly titled Monolith Valley.

It was gorgeous hiking through the ever changing Forrest, flanked by impressive rock formations as I went. A shame the rock is so friable, it would be fantastic to climb! Passing the Seven Gods Pinnacles I continued northwards between Mt Cole and Shrouded Gods Mountain.

Exiting the valley I turned west to traverse along the western side of Mt Cole. Doing so I began to search for some natural cave formations that would provide shelter during the approaching night, knowing there were several places to choose from I continued along to find a suitable place to settle down before the sun set.

I was looking for a cave with a nearby source of water, after finding what could generously be called 'The worlds smallest waterfall' I unpacked my gear under a small rocky overhang sheltered from the ferocious unrelenting wind. A few trips back and forth to fill up water bottles I made camp, and did some reading in the last of the daylight.

It had been a long day, to celebrate the next day's milestone I cracked open a bottle of red wine, got comfortable, and settled in for the night. It had been a long day, sleep came quickly, if somewhat fitfully, as the howling wind continued unabated. I was generally sheltered, but at times the wind would quickly change direction and I'd feel a dust storm envelop me. I fashioned a face mask, put in some earplugs, and tried to rest.

It was a cool, clear morning when I awoke, the wind still howling past. Coffee and breakfast always warm the sole, after a hearty meal of porridge I packed up and was ready to continue on.

The track to this point has been well marked with cairns, I pushed further west along Mt Cole until I arrived at the pass between it and Mt Owen. Here the track became a little less defined, I continued south down a gully that quickly became more overgrown. I came across no more cairns, nor footprints in the soft sand sections. Passing a group of hikers the day before I expected to see some signs of passage, but by this time I realized I was heading down the lesser used section, most parties taking the higher ground over Mt Owen.

Undeterred and not wanting to back track I made my way further south. Some sections required careful footwork, or slight back tracking to find the overgrown path.

At one point I had to climb down some tree roots to navigate a small sheer gully, made a little more difficult wearing a fully loaded hiking pack. Eventually I found the main path which took me back to the resting point I took lunch at a day earlier.

Another chance to fill the water bottles and it was back through the Nibelung Pass, and heading home.

It was time to check out Castle Rock, I hiked up the small path, stashed my bag as to fit through the narrow tunnel, and arrived on the north-eastern side of the rock.

 From here it was a matter of scrambling up the trail until I summited the northern most section of the formation. This wasn't the true summit, but I had already been on the move for five hours and didn't have time to keep going, so I descended to my backpack and started down the Kalianna Pass.

It was steep and tiring work, but I couldn't have asked for better weather or surroundings. Seven and a half hours after I broke camp I was back to my car. Shrugging off the backpack felt amazing, stopping a few kilometers down the road on the banks of the Yadboro river I splashed some icy water on my face (it was all I could bare) and started back to Sydney.

I couldn't have asked for a better weekend.

More photos here

The Coastal Track

After telling a workmate about my previous hike in the Royal National Park, he was inspired to try to walk the complete coastal track so we arranged to meet at the entrance to the park early on Saturday morning and attempt the 30km one way trip while the weather was fine.

After he unsurprisingly canceled last minute I decided to hike it anyway and drove to Bundeena where I would start my journey from the northern end of the trail. It was shaping up to be a stunning day, clear skies but very cold in the early morning light. 

I parked near the Bundeena ferry and after fifteen minutes walking through the small coastal township I arrived at the trail head. The early morning sun bathed the path in a gorgeous golden hue, and the sight of the rugged coastal headlands being battered by a rough swell was stunning.

I hiked past the Balconies and Wedding Cake rock, and in just over an hour I was at Marley Beach, the northernmost point of my trip the previous week. I was back on familiar ground, making good time while still taking time to enjoy the spectacular scenery.

I passed Wattamolla beach and only stopped for morning tea when I reached Eagle Rock. I ate some cheese and crackers while watching the salt spray from the pounding ocean flow up over the cliffs due to the strong winds. It had taken two hours and forty-five minutes for me to reach the half way point of the hike, I had barely seen anyone else on the trail and was enjoying the serenity.

Continuing on past a deserted Garie Beach (quite a change from last week) the track meandered through some small beach shack villages to rise and fall with the undulating headlands. Fatigue was starting to set in a little as the track became sandier the further south I went, but I was on the home stretch and was still making good progress.

The popular 'Figure Eight' pools were still underwater due to the high tide, so I continued on into the 'Burning Palms' section where the track started to steepen. I was nearing the end of the trail, and five and a half hours and thirty kilometers after I started I made it to the Otford Lookout, the end of the hike!


I took the long way to the station, only to realize I had just missed the train and the next one wouldn't arrive for another two hours! It eventually arrived and I took the service to Cronulla as the day was getting late.

The sun was setting by the time I caught the last ferry from Cronulla wharf and I enjoyed the leisurely ride back to Bundeena. I was glad to have parked close the the ferry that morning, shortly after darkness set in an I was in my car heading back to Sydney, tired but content.

More photos here