Crack climbing at Frog Buttress

Time for a lesson in trad climbing! No bolts, just a selection of cams, nuts and hexes placed in rock cracks to protect falls. A perfect way to spend a Saturday!

We left Brisbane in the early hours of the morning and drove through the thick fog to Boonah, where we stopped at Mount French and made our way to the world class crag 'Frog Buttress'.

Our first route was 'Witch's Cauldron', a 12m grade 12 climb. Usually this grade would be trivial to climb, but being unaccustomed to crack climbing, hand and feet jamming, not to mention climbing on trad gear, it was a tough start to the day.

Luckily Chris (a seasoned trad climber from California) was there to teach the finer points of this style of climbing, and lead the routes to pre-place protection (cams, nuts, hexes) for us to use. After two leads of this route (including a fun climb up through a chimney) we moved on to something more challenging.

Our next stop was 'Smoked Banana', a 40m grade 17. Described as a classic Frog Buttress climb, Chris lead again (excellently placing protection) and then it was my turn to lead. Jamming up the first parallel cracks was easier this time, it was a little harder past the ledge where only a single crack continued.

I managed to jam my way up this, climbing higher until I reached an overhanging section, made possible to ascend by several chockstones jammed between two larger slabs.

Past this section the rock opened into a body crack. This is where things got interesting. I had been climbing with a small backpack containing a water bladder as by this point the rock was in full sun. I was already bathed in sweat, but the body crack was so small that I had to throw my backpack down to continue.

Even then, I could only barely fit into the crack. My shoulders and chest were wedged tight, I could barely move sideways, let alone gain leverage to get any higher. Running out of options and not wanting to bail on the climb, I went for it. Sucking in my chest, getting any leverage I could from my hands and feet, I rose slightly, then exhaled to jam my chest against the rock. I held! Again and I again I repeated this tactic, after a few feet the crack widened and I was able to smear my hands and feet on the rock to get some more purchase. Eventually I was free of the crack, and back again climbing. It was a short but exposed finish to the anchors, topping out over the rock I let out a yell and sat down in a pool of my own sweat to take in the view. An incredible climb!

We drove back to Boonah for an ice-coffee and lunch, before heading back to the crag in the late afternoon.

Feeling tired but still having a climb left in me, I opted to lead 'Shit Heap', a 10m grade 14. Climbing first I also placed all my own protection for the first time. I found the route difficult, the cracks either too big or more often too small for me hands. But I endured, placing cams where possible, gradually jamming higher and higher. I topped out, un-roped, and climbed down the 'stairs' behind the route to the bottom. Chris was up next to check my gear placements, and they passed the test! (I also rested on a cam for a little while when leading, quite unnerving when first putting all your weight on it).

I was done for the day, but Chris decided to climb 'Dave Mank's Electric Gorilla' a 20m grade 18-20. He cruised up the crack, showing us all how things are supposed to be done.

It was late in the day so we trekked back to the car park for a cold beer, sorted all the gear out and headed home.

An incredible Saturday, I couldn't ask for a better introduction to trad and crack climbing. Amazing rock, gorgeous views, I left tired but elated. I'll be back for more.....

More photos here

Banished for Infidelity

More climbing in the early new year. Marie and I made our way back to Mt Tibrogargan in the Glass House Mountains for some multi-pitch sport climbing. We decided on 'Banished for Infidelity', a 170m, six pitch climb.

It was a great climb, up nice slabby rock, through brittle and loose flaky sections, into a cramped roof that required stepping out around the corner and attempting an exhilarating crux over 70m off the ground.

The climbing got easier past the crux, and with a little path finding made it to the end of the climb. We were rewarded with a stunning view from an amazing vantage point. After a few snacks we started back down.

The abseil back down was tricky and frustrating, many times coming to the end of the rope (with multiple safety knots tied) and having the next belay station barely in reach. Add to that lots of branches and dead trees that required bypassing, not to mention sore feet and tried limbs, we were very happy to get our feet back on the ground.

Six and a half hours after we started climbing, we touched back down after successfully completing the route. Where we were immediately set upon by hundreds of mosquitoes so we made our way back to the car for some a nice cool drink and something to eat before heading back to Brisbane. It was a hot and humid summer day, and I drank over four litres of water during the climbing, sweating most of it out but worth every moment.

More photos here

Mt Tinbeerwah adventures

After spending a relaxing day recovering from the New Years Eve festivities, Chris and I decided to get a climb in at Mt Tinbeerwah while the rain held off. We didn't start climbing until midday, the heat and humidity drenching us with sweat before we even laid a hand on the rock!

We started up the 70m grade 17 multi-pitch 'String Theory'. Despite the climbs being a little run out it was a fun climb. We made it to the top exhausted and decided to call it a day.

Instead of hiking back to the base of the cliff to collect our gear, I decided to abseil down from the highest point on the lookout, by my guess about 110m.

I made it down to the first belay station, when I found out that I couldn't pull the ropes down from above! The anchors were set too far back from the cliff, and the surface friction of the rock made the rope impossible to move.

There I was, stuck 50m above the ground on a nice ledge, with no way back up. Luckily I was able to yell to Chris, and after a few mis-communications he untied the top ropes and threw them over the cliff.

That being done I was able to retie the knots and abseil down the remaining distance to rejoin Chris on the ground. I was never in any danger, but I should have assessed the situation a bit more before starting down. Lesson learnt, but the abseil was fantastic.

More photos here

Climbing Urbenville

Feeling the urge to one more go exploring, I got a crew of climbers together headed into northern NSW for a weekend of camping and rock climbing. We delayed leaving as the summer storms rolled in on Friday night and gave South East Queensland a much needed soak. We awoke early Saturday morning to overcast skies, but decided to take our chances in the potential storms and made our way south.

A few hours later we passed through Urbenville, then took some roughly graded tracks through Yabbra state forest until we arrived at our destination, Battery Hill. We started up some of the easier climbs while the rest dried out, and after some difficulty route finding we managed to get in a decent day of sharp, crimpy, balancy climbing.

Calling it a day while we still had light we drove to a nearby camp site in the late afternoon, set up our tents, then climbed down to the adjacent waterfalls and washed away the day’s sweat and grime.

Feeling exceptionally refreshed (but hungry) we dried off and took a short drive to the local pub for a schooner of beer (or two) and a piping hot pizza for dinner. Then back to camp where we collapsed in our tents to fall asleep to the thunderous cacophony of cicadas.

I awoke early to a glorious Sunday morning, I brewed a fresh pot of coffee while the others stirred. After a quick breakfast we made our way back to Battery Hill to tackle a few more sections. We started up some more climbs as the hot sun beat down, and managed to tick off some really fun routes before we had to head back. The allure of the water was too strong, so after packing up we once again swam and relaxed under the amazing Tooloom Falls.

Begrudgingly we returned home to Brisbane, exhausted but elated to have such an amazing weekend away. It was great to get out of Queensland, climb a new area, and see so much wildlife (birds, snakes, spiders, lizards) driving through the country roads. It couldn’t have turned out any better.
More photos here

Babylon Wall, Mt Ngungun

Hoping for some clear skies we left Brisbane early Saturday morning and made our way north to the Glass House Mountains. We headed to the previously unexplored Babylon Wall on the north eastern face of Mt Ngungun.

Walking through the damp scrub we arrived to wet rock and several small waterfalls cascading down some of the climbing routes. 

Undeterred we found some lower graded climbs and set off trying to tick off a few routes in the wet. We managed Dang Fool (14), Fool's Errand (14) and Herzinator (13) without slipping off the slick and slippery wall before the sun and heat of the day dried up a few more routes.

We then climbed Hijinx (17) and Gossamer (19) before running out of dry routes to attempt. We called it a day and heading back to the township for the customary post climbing pizza and coffee.

An enjoyable morning, I will return with things dry out.

Some photos here

Wakeboarding on the Nerang River

Just some photos and videos from a scorching hot day down on the Gold Coast. Biting sun, blue skies, beautiful water made it a hot but fantastic morning of wakeboarding and tube riding.

Photos and videos below.

Double Island Point camping

It had been too long since I had camped on the beach, so when I saw a weekend on the calendar that ticked all the boxes (outside of school holidays, decent tide times, not too hot) I organised a trip back north to Double Island Point.

Anton, Kaz and I left after work on Friday night, and drove to Tewantin where we rendezvoused with some friends who were joining us. We hit the beach around nine o'clock, timing it perfectly with the dead low tide, and went about finding a suitable camping site.

We spotted a decent sized spot and proceeded to set up camp in the howling northerly winds. After a couple of beers and handfuls of chocolate coated coffee beans I eventually called it a night around 2 AM, and retreated to my tent that was barely staying upright in the winds.

I woke at the crack of dawn to this, the reason I love camping.

I walked to the beach and started digging for pippis, hoping to start the early morning with some fresh fish for breakfast. Unsurprisingly it wasn't to be, only catching a few smaller fish that we far from legal size. I settled for a few cups of coffee, sausages and eggs and chilled out in the heat of the day.

After a quick nap we went looking for a more productive fishing gutter, having no more luck we returned to camp at dusk and settled in for the night with cold beers in front of a hot fire.

Another late night, another early morning start. Two-thirds of the crew had to return home so we fished and relaxed while they waited for low tide to return home. After a successful fishing session (thanks Kaz) and another midday nap we sat on the dunes and watched the darkening skies slowly creep towards our camp.

We missed the majority of the storm and decided to go for a drive to rainbow beach and explore. Anton suggested we visit the sand blow, so in the late afternoon sun we found our way there.

We stayed until the sun went down then made our way back to camp, our mouths watering with the prospect of pippis and fresh fish waiting to be roasted over an open fire.

Sated by the delicious meal, and drowsy after beer, red wine and whisky, I made it back to my tent one last time. I awoke several times during the night as the fierce winds threatened to steal collapse the tent, but I made it through the night to discover the tent barely standing and full of sand.

At least I still had shelter! After a pole failure during the second night, Kaz and Anton had to sleep on the sand under the tarp, shielded from the now onshore winds by Anton's longboard.

The sunrise cheered my spirits, and after a few coffees we decided to pack up camp and hopefully get away before the rain as more storms were approaching. We managed to beat the rain, and made our way back down the beach towards Brisbane, sandy, tired but content.

Another memorable trip. More photos here

4wding and Hiking Around Mt Beerwah

Just a few photos from my hike around Mt Beerwah looking for some climbing spots. Lots of fun 4wding and bush walking involved.

More photos here

Dog Day Afternoon, Pages Pinnacle

Summer has arrived, Lukas and I decided to take a trip down to the Gold Coast hinterlands to find some shady climbing at Pages Pinnacle. We started the day with the climb 'Party Girls' (19), a fun route up a corner wall. I was climbing well until I was within arms reach of the anchors when I peeled off the wall and took a decent fall 1/3 of the way down the route. Instinctively grabbing the rope I manage to burn through a few lays of skin on my index finger, but finished the climb in the end.

Lukas had no problems on-sighting the climb.

We then made our way further along the wall to climb 'TOS' (18). I had climbed this route before, but this time I continued past the anchors to the 'TOS Extention' (21). This was a lot harder than I expected, I took a lot of rests and falls trying to figure out the steep, pumpy, crimpy crux. Against better judgement I persisted and finally managed to finish the route, forearms and fingers devastated from the abuse. At least I got some practice in taking falls, but my stamina was severely depleted.

After Lukas climbed 'TOS' we took a short break while the sun was overhead, then attempted the slabby 'Striptease' (20). A different style of climbing, I enjoyed sending the route but couldn't finish it clean, having to rest on the bolts near the end of the climb before my hands gave out.

We then climbed 'Are We Dancer' (19) and 'Rock n Surf' (17) as a warm down for the day. Short, committing climbing with big holds right where you need them, it was a great way to finish the day.

We hiked back to the car, drove back along the road that skirted the Hinze Dam and tried to procure a coffee for the drive home. Finding the nearby cafes closed, we asked the proprietor of a small pizza shop if he sold coffee. "No I don't, but because it's not busy I can make one from my personal espresso machine". The Argentinian owner (given away by the prominent Lionel Messi posters on the wall) disappeared behind the counter and a few moments later appeared with some piping hot cappuccinos. We delayed our plans and stayed for a delicious pizza, thick with cheese and toppings. What a great guy! I'll definitely stop by next time I'm in the area.

More photos here