Huayna Potosi, Bolivia. 6088m

As I write this I have been awake for over 36 hours but am still on a high from the rush of doing one of the most incredible things in my life.

I summited a 6088m mountain.

Huanyna Potosi is about an hours drive from La Paz, the first day was spent practicing with crampons and ice axes, making sure we were prepared for the difficult trek ahead of us. I have used crampons and ice axes a few times in South America, but nothing on the scale of what was to be attempted.

Our base camp was at 4700m, by far the highest I have ever stayed and only a 100m lower than I have ever been on Terra Firma. After returning from out training we were to relax and get used to the altitude, already 1200m higher than La Paz.  Already partially acclimatised from my last few weeks in Bolivia over 3500m, the only real struggle was the cold. Luckily the base camp was serviced via road, and as soon as night fell we had roaring fire going.

The next day we packed our equipment and made a 2 1/2 hour trek to the second camp, at 5300m. Already the effects of the higher altitude were setting in, we made slow but steady progress, straining for breath up the steep rocky ascent, carrying a heavy load of gear needed to make the summit. This time there was no luxury of a fire, in fact the second camp was nothing more that two small steel boxes, reminding me of a half-sized shipping container.

With no insulation the only chance to keep was (apart from 14 people living and breathing in such a small confined space) was to layer on the clothes. I slept in two pairs of thermal pants, cargo pants, two thermal long sleeve shirts, a t-shirt and a long sleeved shirt.

It was early to bed (5:00 PM) as we were to wake at 1:00 AM the next day to prepare for the summit approach. Unfortunately I didn´t sleep at all, I spent the next 8 hours thinking random thoughts and trying to sleep but to no avail. Eventually the alarm was sounded and we clambered out of bed and ten people simultaneously tried to dress in heavy clothes and boots in a tiny space. Eventually it was all sorted out, we had a very small breakfast (important not to overeat at this altitude) and set off in the dark.

My partner was Marcell, a french guy with a lot of ice/rock climbing experience. With the help of our guide we eventually passed the other groups in an arduous, extremely tiring climb to the summit. We climbed very steep icy paths, navigated a few small crevasses, and hour by hour we got further to our goal. I settled into a zombie-like state; left foot-right foot-deep breath, stopping now and then to rest and recover our breath. I was quite warm with all my layers, but my water bottle iced over in my backpack, and my sunscreen was frozen solid.

We stopped for a well deserved rest at 5900m, I lay on the ice quite happy to fall asleep, but with the end in sight (figuratively, there was no moon) we pressed on. After a few steps my newly purchased head torch failed..... Not wanting to turn back I pressed on in semi-darkness, stumbling along the path mindful of the steep drop-offs that accompanied many sections of the path. I made it to the final resting point, 6000m. It was a steep, very narrow (often room for only one foot at a time) path to the top. Luckily my head torch came back to life, I think the intense cold of laying on the ice temporarily killed the batteries, as it did for my DSLR at the summit.

Chewing the last of my coca leaves I pressed on, I was rewarded 30 minutes later by one of the most incredible experiences of my life. The three of us (myself, Marcell, Luis our guide) were the only people on the summit as dawn broke at 6088m. I forgot all about the cold and my tiredness and watched in awe as the day broke.

Slowly other groups began to arrive, but the summit lost none of its magic, it was breathtaking to see the darkness leave the mountains and the day begin. I was only able to take a few photos, the bitter cold drained the camera batteries and it was hard to take photos wearing three layers of gloves.

We stayed at the summit for 25 minutes before starting the journey down.

While much quicker on the descent, the altitude, lack of sleep, and exhaustion from climbing 800m took its tool, by the time we reached the second camp I was ready to drop. I changed out of my layers as the sun soon started cooking, and packed the heavy back to descend back to base camp. It was quite an experience to be out of breath just by taking off a pair of ice boots. Wanting to get to the bottom we soon set off on the last 600m descent, although my legs were not obeying my mind we managed to get back to 4700m without any major problems. I sat in the base camp and quickly downed two coffees and began to feel more alert.

Out of the ten who attempted the climb, only six reached the summit, the drop-out rate is around 50%. Most of this can be attributed to altitude sickness but it also takes a lot of fitness and determination to make it all the way.

It was an incredible few days, the physical and mental challenge combined with the breathtaking beauty of the mountain is something that will stay with me forever. One of the most rewarding things I have ever done.

More photos here

The Death Road, Bolivia

If you ever visit La Paz in Bolivia you must attempt the Death Road descent on a well worn mountain bike. A better history than I can write can be found here,  but in short since 2006 a safer bypass was opened to accommodate traffic away from the notoriously dangerous stretch of read, so now the hordes of bikes screaming downhill made up 98% of the traffic on the day I took the plunge.

I never felt in any danger on my bike, but the very narrow (no more than 3.2m wide), poorly graded dirt road cut into the mountain resulting in sheer cliffs (with no guard rails) on one side would make passing other vehicles and regular traffic a nightmare. I can easily see how the road got its name.

We started at La Cumbre (4700m), an hour or so outside La Paz and finished three hours later at Yolosa (1200m). We descended approximately 3500m over 63 km, I barely touched the peddles but as you can imagine I was constantly on the breaks.

It was a really cool experience, only slightly marred when I somehow bent the rear derailleur 90 degrees, bringing an end to that bike! With only 15 minutes to go I borrowed the guides bike and completed the journey without any further problems.

We were then taken to Coroico for a buffet lunch at a hotel with a fantastic view, where I cooled off after the hot dusty ride by having a short swim in the hotel pool. A really enjoyable day, all the better for being in a small group (consisting of me and three hungover Chileans) and being one of the first groups down the mountain.

Photos were taken by the tour guide, and can be found here

Salar de Uyuni, Bolivia

From Tupiza I set off on a four day tour through the Bolivian wilds, finishing up in the astonishing salts flats of Uyuni. The driver, cook, my three french companions and I piled into an 80s series Landcrusier and set off early morning with a chill in the air.

Day 1.
The first stop was at the 'El Sillar' rock formations. Tupiza is around 3000m above sea level, we steadily gained altitude throughout the day. Even though the sun was shining and there were no clouds in the sky, the cold breeze ensured that I would remain wrapped up in many layers of clothes. We continued past the abandoned ruins of 'Fantasma' (4690m A.S.L) then passed the highest point of our journey, a mountain pass at 4800m A.S.L. We stopped for the night at a very small guesthouse, I climbed into bed with all of my clothes on so as to make it through the freezing night.

Day 2.
Up at 6:30 and continued the trip. My breath was visible sitting in the back seat of the car, and every stream we crossed was frozen over. We stopped at 'Laguna Verde' (4500m A.S.L) but due to the cold weather the lake had partially frozen over and the colours were not as vivid, also the flamingos were nowhere to be seen. We stopped for lunch at some thermal springs where I braved the cold winds to strip down to a pair of board shorts and spent a fantastic 30 minutes in 35 degree water, only 20m from a frozen lake. Invigorating!

Further on we stopped at some geysers, an eerie feeling to hear the ground hiss beneath as I walked along. We again paused at 'Lago Colorado', a spectacularly bright red lake, this time with a few flamingos.

We stayed the night at Villa Mar, another tiny town in the middle of nowhere. I watched the sun set over typically gorgeous Bolivian scenery, before retreating from the cold into the guest house.

Day 3.
Up at 6:00, we stopped at more interesting rock formations, including one that kinda looked like the World Cup.... kinda. I could hear the calls of baby condors from the nests high in the rocks, but didn't see the parents.

Next stop was at Laguna Negro, another frozen lake at 4200m A.S.L. From there we visited a lookout to 'Volcan Ollague' still active, situated on the border of Bolivia and Chile, 5900m A.S.L.

That afternoon we arrived on the outskirts of the Salar de Uyuni salt flats. We stayed in a hostel that was almost completely constructed using salt. The bricks, mortar, the floor and even the tables were salt! Surprisingly insulated, sleeping wasn't too uncomfortable in the cold.

Day 4.
Up at 5:30, the blistering cold slapping you awake as you walk outside. I was treated to an incredible sunrise over the salt flats before we stopped for breakfast at 'Isla Incahuasi' a bizarre coral formation in the middle of the salt flats. Lined with cacti and even a few llamas, it was a great way to spend breakfast.

We continued on into the salt flats, stopping at a random place and feeling like you are in another world, flat, blinding white salt plains as far as the eye can see. Amazing.

The tour finished in the small town of Uyuni, after buying a bus ticket to La Paz I walked a few kilometers out of town to the train cemetery. It was a line of abandoned and rusting carriages and engines. Not something you see every day, it was pretty cool to walk around in between all the rusting hulks.

Another bitterly cold night in Uyuni, I jumped on an overnight bus to La Paz. I awoke in the morning and realised that the inside of the windows had frozen over! The blankets provided during the trip were much needed, but some heating wouldn't have gone astray. To make matters worse, the bus broke down about an hour from La Paz, it was a few hours before a replacement bus arrived, which needed intermittent breaks to keep functioning. I finally arrived in La Paz at midday, time to explore...

More photos here

Tupiza, Bolivia

I spent four nights in Tupiza, a small town in south-east Bolivia. Surrounded by cacti, dust, scrub and mountain ranges it was here that I was finally able to fulfil my dreams of being a cowboy!

I arrived to town and scaled the small lookout as dusk set in, the following day I ventured around the city limits and explored. I climbed ´La Cruz´ mountain which gave a great view of the town, then continued to walk through dusty fields littered with small, spiky shrubs and many cacti until I found 'El Elephante', a rock formation that slightly resembles an Elephant. Ironically I could not find 'El Canyon Sectreto' so I returned to town. That afternoon I once again wandered out of town and trekked along a wide, dry riverbed. Surrounded by mountains it was only the solitary power lines that ruined the illusion of being out in wild west frontier. I climbed a small rock formation many miles upsteam and sat while I gazed out over the gorgeous barren scenery. I walked back down the riverbed past herds of llamas and goats grazing on grass the spotted the ground between thorny shrubs and cacti.

The next day I began a two day horseback ride through the outskirts of Tupiza. Only having sat on a horse once before I was a little apprehensive about how I would hold up, but I needn't have worried. The horse (for the most part) was on autopilot, I sat back and watched the phenomenal scenery drift past for the next two days.

On the first day was rode out to 'El Duendo' rock formation, and after spending 15 minutes exploring the valleys we continued on until we fjorded a wide but shallow river. We stopped for lunch before riding through tiny, dusty towns past goats, chickens, donkeys and dogs and the occasional person. As the sun was setting, turning the surrounding mountain ranges a golden brown, we arrived at our home stay in the very small town of 'Espicaya'.

I awoke the next day to a very cold morning, but once in the sun the temperature was perfect. We returned to the site of yesterdays lunch, through golden fields of wheat and across rivers. Passing by more amazing rock formations, we continued on via the railway line (still in use) as we made our way back to Tupiza. I arrived as the sun was setting, dusty and tired but not too sore, and very happy for the experience.

The cowboy life is not for me, but I completely understand the allure of riding all day through glorious countryside, with nothing but the sounds of hooves against nature to keep me company.

More photos here

Potosi, Bolivia

At 4000m above sea level, Potosi is the highest city in the world, and as a result in the dead of winter, pretty cold! The bus trip from Sucre to Potosi was a three hours of gorgeous countryside, which unfortunately ended when reaching the city limits, garbage everywhere.

Apart from the altitude, the city is defined by the giant `Cerro Rico´ that towers over the town. Once a tremendous source of silver (now depleted), the mine is still worked to extract tin and other precious metals.

It was in this mountain that I was to take a guided tour of a working silver mine....

I set off on the tour the next day, before getting kitted out in safety gear we stopped at the local market to buy some gifts for the mine workers. I passed on bottles of 96% alcohol, cigarettes (their lungs are bad enough!) and sticks of dynamite (only $3US!) and instead opted for bottled water and cocoa leaves.

After a short tour through the basic processing plants we came to one of the many mine entrances. I spent two hours below the surface, slowly making my way through tiny rock corridors, at one stage having to crawl along on my hands and knees. A fine dust clogged the air (a bandanna helped but by the end it was so wet from sweat I couldn't breath) and the smell of sulphur and other chemicals was fierce! We descended four stages, the heat in the lower levels was intense! It was supposedly over 35 degrees where the workers were actively mining the rock, inhuman!

We eventually made it back out, none to soon, the bright sun was blinding but the cool breeze was welcome. It is was an amazing experience but one that you would have trouble trying to get me to repeat.

Spare a thought for the people (including children) that work there year round. Potosi has a fascinating history.

More photos here

Sucre, Bolivia

My days in Sucre are coming to an end after 18 days, by far the longest I have stayed in one place. I have finished 70 hours of Spanish lessons, a lot to take in but definitely worth the effort although I am a little burnt out at the moment and definitely feel the need to get back on the road.

A small, sun drenched town with more churches than seems necessary, Sucre is very relaxed town and the sedate atmosphere made it a great place to study. At 2,700m above sea level the morning and nights were cold but during the day it was gloriously warm in the sun.

In between Spanish lessons, reading in the sun and drinking fresh fruit smoothies from the markets (and a few bouts of food poisoning, not related) I didn`t do a whole lot else. Just what I needed after a week of hectic travel but now it is time to continue my travels and put my Spanish to the test.

More photos here