Saturday, July 14, 2012

Tupiza, Bolivia

I spent four nights in Tupiza, a small town in south-east Bolivia. Surrounded by cacti, dust, scrub and mountain ranges it was here that I was finally able to fulfil my dreams of being a cowboy!

I arrived to town and scaled the small lookout as dusk set in, the following day I ventured around the city limits and explored. I climbed ´La Cruz´ mountain which gave a great view of the town, then continued to walk through dusty fields littered with small, spiky shrubs and many cacti until I found 'El Elephante', a rock formation that slightly resembles an Elephant. Ironically I could not find 'El Canyon Sectreto' so I returned to town. That afternoon I once again wandered out of town and trekked along a wide, dry riverbed. Surrounded by mountains it was only the solitary power lines that ruined the illusion of being out in wild west frontier. I climbed a small rock formation many miles upsteam and sat while I gazed out over the gorgeous barren scenery. I walked back down the riverbed past herds of llamas and goats grazing on grass the spotted the ground between thorny shrubs and cacti.

The next day I began a two day horseback ride through the outskirts of Tupiza. Only having sat on a horse once before I was a little apprehensive about how I would hold up, but I needn't have worried. The horse (for the most part) was on autopilot, I sat back and watched the phenomenal scenery drift past for the next two days.

On the first day was rode out to 'El Duendo' rock formation, and after spending 15 minutes exploring the valleys we continued on until we fjorded a wide but shallow river. We stopped for lunch before riding through tiny, dusty towns past goats, chickens, donkeys and dogs and the occasional person. As the sun was setting, turning the surrounding mountain ranges a golden brown, we arrived at our home stay in the very small town of 'Espicaya'.

I awoke the next day to a very cold morning, but once in the sun the temperature was perfect. We returned to the site of yesterdays lunch, through golden fields of wheat and across rivers. Passing by more amazing rock formations, we continued on via the railway line (still in use) as we made our way back to Tupiza. I arrived as the sun was setting, dusty and tired but not too sore, and very happy for the experience.

The cowboy life is not for me, but I completely understand the allure of riding all day through glorious countryside, with nothing but the sounds of hooves against nature to keep me company.

More photos here