Monday, June 1, 2015

Climbing Urbenville

Once again some friends and I headed south to Northern NSW to do some rock climbing at Urbenville. Our intention was to climb at 'The Crown', the unmissable volcanic plug which dominates the skyline. On arrival we parked in a paddock just outside of the sewerage treatment plant and made our way through the grassy field until we reached the tree line, where the track steepened up towards the mountain.

A short while later we arrived to the rock face, and were greeted with a wall of near featureless slab. While the type of rock provided plenty of friction, only the thinnest of edges were available when climbing, any slip likely to cause a skin shredding fall.


Marie and I started up 'Sonoluminesence', a 20m grade 17. The climbing was delicate and balancey, and not being used to slab climbing I found the grade harder than indicated. Almost every move required you to trust your feet to stick while your fingertips searched for any purchase on the rock. So much for an easy warm up.


While Joel and Chris searched for more climbs, Marie and I decided to try 'Slip', a 23m grade 19. It started difficultly, and it didn't get any easier the higher we went. I lead the first pitch, once Marie joined me at the belay station we decided to continue higher on the 50m 'Genocide and Caramel' (18) route. Marie lead the second pitch, and I lead the final section.


Once again, it was extremely delicate and committing climbing. Slowly, with worn down fingertips and cramping toes, I made it to the top. I set up a belay while Marie climbed, and took in the late afternoon view.


Once back on the ground we hiked back to the car, where we sat and drank a well deserved beer in the company of a bunch of inquisitive cows.


We left as the sun was setting and made it back to the pub in time for happy hour, ordered some hot, fresh pizzas and rested after a challenging day.


From there it was a short drive to the Tooloom Falls where we set up camp, sat around a roaring fire and relaxed. It was a mild night so I left the fly off my tent, and eventually fell asleep underneath the moonlit skies with the sound of the waterfall in the background.

The next morning was brisk, we had a large breakfast of bacon, eggs and coffee while the sun burned off the heavy overnight fog. After packing up camp we drove to nearby 'Battery Hill' for a morning of easier climbing. Parking next to the cliff, we set off on some shorter, easier routes. It was another beautiful morning of climbing, I finished on the fun 'Copper Top' (19) before calling it a day.


Driving back out of the state forrest I stopped for a quick, frigid but refreshing swim in Tooloom Falls before leaving Urbenville and heading home to Brisbane. Another great weekend away.

More photos here