We were woken at dawn by the yapping of two poodles, excited to discover some strangers on their doorstep. We rose and said good morning to the owner, the caretaker of the nearby fish hatchery and started on breakfast.
A big bowl of cereal and a few cups of fresh coffee later, we were on our way. We started up the nearby ridge and hiked towards Castle Wall. Once there we had an attempt at a 'project', a fully bolted but so far unclimbed route. It was vertical climbing on tiny holds, with very little for the feet. We made it less than a quarter of the way, but the climbing was enjoyable and the rock felt solid.
Once the belay was established at the top of pitch one, it was my turn to climb. The climbing was fantastic and the amazing winter weather only made things better.
I arrived to a very cramped belay cave / ledge, tried to make myself comfortable before my partner set off on the second pitch to the top. He set off up the crack again, and before long he was at the top of the cliff waiting for me to start.
The final pitch started with nice climbing with plenty of holds up a broken section of rock. So far so good.
Then it was a very awkward move to climb and step out onto a stunningly exposed ledge, high above the ground. It was only a few short metres, but the rock was uneven and sloping, and with very little hand holds it utterly thrilling to step along the narrow rock outcrop and carefully edge my way across. Phenomenal.
Once my hands were on better holds it was only a few short moves to the top and the amazing views.
Rather than hike down we decided to abseil a little further around the cliff. We set some slings around a tree and started down. As we descended, we remarked on the potential of putting up a new climb where we were coming down. The holds looked good, and there seemed to be a wandering line of climbing starting at the edge of the huge cave underneath. As the sun was fading we decided to come back tomorrow and have a closer look, but excitement at the possibility of putting up a new route was bubbling away underneath.
Back down to camp just as the sun was setting, dinner on the camp stove, and in bed and fast asleep by 6:30 PM. A fantastic start to the weekend.
We were roused pre-dawn once again by the excitable dogs, and after another hearty breakfast we were back at Castle Wall. This time we hiked around the back to the top of the cliffs, joined by the care taker intrigued by our tales of climbing. Hiking past more mouth-watering (hand-watering?) rock features, the potential for new climbs was huge.
Once at the top we tied our ropes off to a large tree, and my partner abseiled down the cliff with hammer drill in hand. A little while later he was on the ground and signaled me to abseil down. Once on the ground he handed me some quickdraws, it was time to attempt the very first ascent of the new climb. It had always been a goal of mine and I was lucky enough that my partner gave me the honour of the first go.
I was actually a little nervous, the holds were untested and the sequence unknown, but I set off determined to make the most of it. What a climb it turned out to be! The climbing was superb, up a steep and high cliff face with a mixture of big and small holds, fantastic moves, and a wandering line up through some amazing features. My first first ascent! It was every bit as good as I had hoped. Thus, 'Memorable Name' (21) was born.
I sat on the edge of the cliff and belayed up my partner, soaking in the experience, one I won't soon forget.
My partner joined my at the top, we couldn't believe how good the route turned out to be. Exhausted but exhilarated we made our way back to the ground for another attempt at the project. Our fingers soon gave up on us, so we made our way back to camp, still on a high from our new climb.
Back to camp at sunset and the skies clouded and the drizzle set in. Another hearty dinner and we were back in bed, managing to stay up until 7:00 PM this time.
Awoken again before dawn, the skies were dark and the wet weather had well and truly set in. Unable to see the cliffs due to the fog, we decided to head back to Brisbane. We said farewell to the dogs and their owner and set off on the long drive home. Somewhere along the 500km route home the skies cleared and we finished our journey under beautiful skies.
A long way to go but a trip I would make again in a heartbeat. I have ideas for some new climbs that will await my return...
More photos (of lots of rocks and other things) here
