Double Island Point camping

It is officially winter but the days have been beautiful, and with that in mind I was keen to get back on the sand for some relaxing beach camping.

Naz and I headed up north on Friday night, catching the first few hours of the receding tide as we made our way on to the beach in squally weather. Stopping to let the tyres down for soft sand driving saw us being drenched by the rain coming down sideways. We made our way along the beach until we reached our usual camping spot and pulled up.

The rain stopped so we set up camp in typical windy Teewah Beach conditions, celebrated with a cold beer and went to bed as the rain set back in.

Luckily the tents stayed dry and we awoke to a pretty sunrise but with distant skies full of rain. Sure enough, during breakfast the horizontal rain set back in and the prospects of a relaxing dry weekend were looking slim.

We decided to go for a drive to the north western side of the point to see if we could find somewhere sheltered, and as we drove the rain eased and the sun came out. We parked along some dunes and rigged up hoping to catch some fish for lunch, but disaster struck when the car door was blown shut, snapping Naz's rod in two. With the only competent fisherman gearless it was all up to me, but while something was happy to nibble the tails off my soft plastic lures, nothing significant found itself on the end of my line.

The wind didn't help with the fishing so we decided to head back to the eastern side and check out the point. It was there we caught up with our friend who had arrived overnight, and we set off up the hill to the lighthouse.

Taking in the view from the top, we continued the track around and detoured off through the scrub following a faint track that led down onto the lower rocky outcrop. We sat for a while watching a pod of dolphins play in the waves, then set off back to camp for lunch.

The wind continued to ease slightly as the day progressed and we stayed around camp and relaxed in the sun. The onshore winds made beach fishing difficult, so we started up the fire, sat around the warmth and enjoyed the moment.

As night fell the fire was roaring and Gavin set about preparing a camp fire roast. After an hour around the coals it was ready to go, and it was the perfect meal to end the day with. We sat up until the last of the embers died away (and the esky was emptied of beers), then we retired to our tents for the night.

Up again as the sun rose, the wind had eased a little more and the skies showed no signs of rain. We drank coffee on the dunes, slowly packed camp and made the most of the morning. Naz had some luck in the gutters opposite camp, catching a few nice bream with his spare beach rod.

As the tide neared low we set off home, happy to get mostly great weather for our weekend away. It's always great to wake up on the beach, breathing the salt air and listening to the crash of the waves as the sun comes up, and this weekend was no exception. Always much to short, but we will return...

More photos here

Cania Gorge

What better way to spend a long weekend than to drive off into the outback and explore a new climbing location. We left Brisbane on Friday night and drove for six hours north-west to Cania Gorge. Arriving very early in the morning we threw our tents up by the side of the road and got some much needed sleep, excited for the days ahead.

We were woken at dawn by the yapping of two poodles, excited to discover some strangers on their doorstep. We rose and said good morning to the owner, the caretaker of the nearby fish hatchery and started on breakfast.

A big bowl of cereal and a few cups of fresh coffee later, we were on our way. We started up the nearby ridge and hiked towards Castle Wall. Once there we had an attempt at a 'project', a fully bolted but so far unclimbed route. It was vertical climbing on tiny holds, with very little for the feet. We made it less than a quarter of the way, but the climbing was enjoyable and the rock felt solid.

We admitted defeat, but now we were warmed up and ready for the next challenge. Our next route was the nearby 'Amateur Theatrics', a 40m grade 19 trad climb. My partner started up the thin crack, climbing past the stag horns growing on the cliff face.

Once the belay was established at the top of pitch one, it was my turn to climb. The climbing was fantastic and the amazing winter weather only made things better.

I arrived to a very cramped belay cave / ledge, tried to make myself comfortable before my partner set off on the second pitch to the top. He set off up the crack again, and before long he was at the top of the cliff waiting for me to start.

The final pitch started with nice climbing with plenty of holds up a broken section of rock. So far so good.

Then it was a very awkward move to climb and step out onto a stunningly exposed ledge, high above the ground. It was only a few short metres, but the rock was uneven and sloping, and with very little hand holds it utterly thrilling to step along the narrow rock outcrop and carefully edge my way across. Phenomenal.

Once my hands were on better holds it was only a few short moves to the top and the amazing views.

Rather than hike down we decided to abseil a little further around the cliff. We set some slings around a tree and started down. As we descended, we remarked on the potential of putting up a new climb where we were coming down. The holds looked good, and there seemed to be a wandering line of climbing starting at the edge of the huge cave underneath. As the sun was fading we decided to come back tomorrow and have a closer look, but excitement at the possibility of putting up a new route was bubbling away underneath.

Back down to camp just as the sun was setting, dinner on the camp stove, and in bed and fast asleep by 6:30 PM. A fantastic start to the weekend.

We were roused pre-dawn once again by the excitable dogs, and after another hearty breakfast we were back at Castle Wall. This time we hiked around the back to the top of the cliffs, joined by the care taker intrigued by our tales of climbing. Hiking past more mouth-watering (hand-watering?) rock features, the potential for new climbs was huge.

To make the track easier to find on the way back I set about collecting a few rocks to make some cairns as trail makers. Turning over a lone rock I was taken aback at what I found. That was the end of that exercise!

Once at the top we tied our ropes off to a large tree, and my partner abseiled down the cliff with hammer drill in hand. A little while later he was on the ground and signaled me to abseil down. Once on the ground he handed me some quickdraws, it was time to attempt the very first ascent of the new climb. It had always been a goal of mine and I was lucky enough that my partner gave me the honour of the first go.

I was actually a little nervous, the holds were untested and the sequence unknown, but I set off determined to make the most of it. What a climb it turned out to be! The climbing was superb, up a steep and high cliff face with a mixture of big and small holds, fantastic moves, and a wandering line up through some amazing features. My first first ascent! It was every bit as good as I had hoped. Thus, 'Memorable Name' (21) was born.

I sat on the edge of the cliff and belayed up my partner, soaking in the experience, one I won't soon forget.

My partner joined my at the top, we couldn't believe how good the route turned out to be. Exhausted but exhilarated we made our way back to the ground for another attempt at the project. Our fingers soon gave up on us, so we made our way back to camp, still on a high from our new climb.

Back to camp at sunset and the skies clouded and the drizzle set in. Another hearty dinner and we were back in bed, managing to stay up until 7:00 PM this time.

Awoken again before dawn, the skies were dark and the wet weather had well and truly set in. Unable to see the cliffs due to the fog, we decided to head back to Brisbane. We said farewell to the dogs and their owner and set off on the long drive home. Somewhere along the 500km route home the skies cleared and we finished our journey under beautiful skies.

A long way to go but a trip I would make again in a heartbeat. I have ideas for some new climbs that will await my return...

More photos (of lots of rocks and other things) here

Climbing Urbenville

Once again some friends and I headed south to Northern NSW to do some rock climbing at Urbenville. Our intention was to climb at 'The Crown', the unmissable volcanic plug which dominates the skyline. On arrival we parked in a paddock just outside of the sewerage treatment plant and made our way through the grassy field until we reached the tree line, where the track steepened up towards the mountain.

A short while later we arrived to the rock face, and were greeted with a wall of near featureless slab. While the type of rock provided plenty of friction, only the thinnest of edges were available when climbing, any slip likely to cause a skin shredding fall.

Marie and I started up 'Sonoluminesence', a 20m grade 17. The climbing was delicate and balancey, and not being used to slab climbing I found the grade harder than indicated. Almost every move required you to trust your feet to stick while your fingertips searched for any purchase on the rock. So much for an easy warm up.

While Joel and Chris searched for more climbs, Marie and I decided to try 'Slip', a 23m grade 19. It started difficultly, and it didn't get any easier the higher we went. I lead the first pitch, once Marie joined me at the belay station we decided to continue higher on the 50m 'Genocide and Caramel' (18) route. Marie lead the second pitch, and I lead the final section.

Once again, it was extremely delicate and committing climbing. Slowly, with worn down fingertips and cramping toes, I made it to the top. I set up a belay while Marie climbed, and took in the late afternoon view.

Once back on the ground we hiked back to the car, where we sat and drank a well deserved beer in the company of a bunch of inquisitive cows.

We left as the sun was setting and made it back to the pub in time for happy hour, ordered some hot, fresh pizzas and rested after a challenging day.

From there it was a short drive to the Tooloom Falls where we set up camp, sat around a roaring fire and relaxed. It was a mild night so I left the fly off my tent, and eventually fell asleep underneath the moonlit skies with the sound of the waterfall in the background.

The next morning was brisk, we had a large breakfast of bacon, eggs and coffee while the sun burned off the heavy overnight fog. After packing up camp we drove to nearby 'Battery Hill' for a morning of easier climbing. Parking next to the cliff, we set off on some shorter, easier routes. It was another beautiful morning of climbing, I finished on the fun 'Copper Top' (19) before calling it a day.

Driving back out of the state forrest I stopped for a quick, frigid but refreshing swim in Tooloom Falls before leaving Urbenville and heading home to Brisbane. Another great weekend away.

More photos here

Paparazzi Cliffs

After hiking to find some new climbing spots on Mt Maroon a week ago, I returned with a friend and some climbing gear to tick off some new routes.

Another beautiful Autumn day, with a chill in the wind to remind me that winter is on its way. Cooler weather will make for better climbing, but the shorter days require additional planning as we soon found out.

We made it to the Paparazzi Cliffs mid morning and set off up the wall. The climbing was enjoyable, with plenty of thin climbing on small feet and hold holds to test our confidence in the strength of the rock. The climbing was further tested by having to constantly stop and look for the next bolt, well camouflaged against the lichen covered rock.

Moving on to the next climb presented more problems, with so many routes in close proximity there were a multitude of bolts to choose from, not knowing which was the correct line to take. Additional bolting had been done since the guide was released with new variant sections appearing making way finding especially difficult.

Still, it was a great day of climbing on some good rock in a beautiful part of the world. With the end of the day approaching I made it to the top of a 50m climb and stopped to sit and take in the amazing afternoon views.

I was back on the ground as the sun was getting lower in the sky, and we started back down the rocky slopes hoping to make it back to the trail before night overtook. We failed.

We made the mistake of aimlessly heading towards lower ground from the cliffs, hoping to pick up the distinct track further along the way. As the scrub was fairly light it was easy to miss the faint tracks, and the rock cairns were easily passed without noticing. Once dark it was nearly impossible to pick up where we should have been.

It was an almost moonless night, and under the canopy of the forest it soon became pitch black around us. Luckily I had a head torch and a hand held GPS, we slid and scrambled down shin deep thick leaf litter, loose scree slopes, down deep ravines, through sections of spiky lantana and too many spider webs to mention, getting turned around endlessly trying to navigate the several gullies we had to cross, all the while carrying backpacks full heavy equipment in low light. It was not a pleasant experience!

Eventually my GPS received some signals through the trees overhead and we found our way back to the exit of the ravine and the continuation of the trail. From there is was a not so simple walk following a sporadic fire trail, and finally through a field of waist high grass until we came out at the beginning of the north east tourist track.

Two and a half hours after we set of, we were back in the car and relieved to be heading home. Tired and sore, but thankful to be safe, we drove back to Brisbane pretty happy with how the day panned out. We will return, and this time remembering to plot a lot more way points on my GPS to ensure a trouble free return trip. Another adventure for the books.

More photos here

Exploring Mt Maroon and Northern NSW

After doing some amazing climbing recently I was determined to discover some more places to climb on Mt Maroon. Armed with some rough guides I set off to explore on a beautiful Autumn morning in southern Queensland.

Diverging from start of the north east summit track I came across a rough fire break, and continued along this until it finished at a steep gully. After scrambling past the gully I turned to head towards the face of the mountain while continuing further west. All the while gaining ground, I hiked further into the scrub, following faint tracks when they appeared. Finding a small featured wall I stopped for a quick bite to eat, looking out of an amazing view of the countryside.

I continued up some more terraces until I found what I was looking for, Paparazzi Cliffs. A handful of bolted climbing routes near some great looking caves. I sat down under the crisp clear blue sky and relaxed in the sun.

Heading back I stayed close the base of the mountain, finding more interesting rock formations, took the long way down the deep gully and returned once again to the tourist track. It was getting late in the day, but I started up the main hiking trail, veering off track half way along to find 'Viewpoint Buttress'. Orientating myself for a return visit with climbing gear, I surveyed some of the trad routes in the late afternoon as the skies turned grey.

Enjoying the day and not wanting to return to Brisbane right away, I drove to Urbenville as night closed in and stopped at the only pub in town. Tired and hungry after the long day I sat down with a large hot pizza and proceeded to finish it easily.

Back on the road and I kept driving south-west, further into northern NSW until I arrived at a favourite camp site of mine. Nestled on the banks of the upper Clarence River is a small patch of flat grassy land called Paddy's Flat. I arrived well into the pitch black night as the storm clouds had covered the sky.

Getting my priorities straight I cracked a beer, got a fire going, then set up my tent. I settled into my camp chair in front of the flames, in the drizzle, drank beer and listened to music until the last of the logs collapsed into embers.

It lightly rained throughout the night, and I woke in the misty early morning to a slightly damp temp. I brewed a fresh pot of coffee, had some breakfast and packed up my car.

Wanting to continue the adventure, after driving north through the Yabbra state forest I turned off towards Killarney. With all of the overnight rain I thought it would be fun to drive along the Condamine River Road, a 18km stretch of dirt road that crosses the Condamine River fourteen times. The rocky bottomed river was no more than 30cm at its deepest sections, not a problem for the patrol. It was still a very nice drive along the border of Queensland and NSW, the river in parts flanked by the steep sides the Koreelah National Park.

From there on it was a pleasant but windy and rainy drive back home to Brisbane. A fantastic weekend in a beautiful part of the world. I'll be back for more soon.

More photos here