Day 1.
We got a lift with some friends to the national park entrance early morning. We were treated to an amazing sunrise over the steppes and mountain ranges, things were definitely off to a good start. We hiked in overcast skies but it was a warm trek to the first camp site (approx 9 kms). We set up camp only to find the tent we rented was barely long enough for me to lie down in, and only by the smallest margin were we both able to lie side by side.... Nevertheless we then hiked up to the first lookout, the world famous Torres del Paine. Absolutely incredible.... The weather was turning worse but we still got an amazing view to the three towers (with circling Condors) and the aquamarine lake at the base. We met with two travellers from the Navimag ferry at the summit, they shared their wine, cheese and fresh fruit with us(the benefits of paying a lot of money for a guide and a day trip), we were very grateful. We made it back down to the camp site in the afternoon with the skies getting darker.
It was the last time on the hike I would have dry feet.
Day 2.
We awoke in pouring rain to a thouroughly wet camp site. We made the most of breakfast before packing our tent and heading to the next campsite. After an hour of walking in the howling wind and pouring rain through muddy trails and gushing streams I was thouroughly wet. At some point in the 22km trek to the next camp site I lost the use of my fingers due to the cold, it took some hours of massaging and warmth before I could straigthen my little fingers again. Still, even with the bad weather we made good time (mostly keeping on the move to stop from freezing) and we arrived at the camp site with the skies slightly clearing. We set our tent with as much protection as possible and had an early night, hoping for drier days to come.
Day 3.
It rained again overnight and as a result our tent leaked from above and below, now our sleeping bags, backpacks and clothes were damp. Deciding to make to most of it we a hot breakfast and trekked 10kms to the French Valley, a spectacular stretch of trail surrounded by towering mountains, ice fields and through autumnal forrests. An amazing place, we stopped at the final lookout feeling insignificant but in awe. At this stage it started raining again, with occasional sleet so we returned to camp. It was Mark's birthday (one of two North Carolinians we met camping) so we cracked our only bottle of cheap red wine to mark the occasion. Served at room temperature (roughly 9 degrees) it was a nice end to a great day.
Day 4.
Awaking to sunshine but cold weather we began the 24km trip to the next camp site. This section took us through areas of the park devastated by recent bushfires, past gorgeous lakes and through rocky valleys lashed with immense winds. Several times gusts of wind would stop me dead in my tracks, unable to walk onwards. The lakes were whipped into a chop and we spotted the occasional chunk of ice that had broken free from the glacier upstream. After the last grueling 4 km hike through undulating valleys we arrived to our final camp site early in the afternoon. Only a few hundred metres away was the lookout to the Grey Glacier. The sun was shining as we jumped the barrier and walked down the rock face for a closer view. I´m at a loss for words to describe what we saw. Sitting on the rocks in the driving wind but finally with some sun in our faces we sat and watched the glacier, so many shades of blue and patterns, with an amazing mountain range in the background. It was an incredibly vindicating sight after so many hours walking through wind and rain, it was worth every step.
Day 5.
Awoke to more rain, we set off in darkness to the rendevous point to catch the ferry and bus up back to Puerto Natales. The streams were flowing more due to the amount of water recieved in the night, and with the low visibility it made for some interesting crossings, but we made it back with an hour to spare, cold and wet. It was an incredible few days, even with the foul weather I experienced some amazing sights, and wouldn´t hesitate to reccomend it to anyone who is up for a challenge.
The less said about the state of my feet, the smell of my shoes and my clothes in general the better....
A lot more photos here
