Kuelap, Peru

After arriving to Trujillo (from Huaraz) in solemn, overcast weather I decided to skip the beach and instead headed back into the mountains. I'm getting very used to sleeping on buses, I can usually get a semi-decent rest with a pair of earplugs and a beanie pulled over my eyes (discounting people trying to recline their seats through my knees). This acquired skill has served me well travelling through Peru, where the majority of buses have been overnighters. I bought a bus ticket out of town and killed time, spending the remainder of the day wandering around Trujillo, finding a decent botanic gardens to relax in.

I arrived in Chachapoyas just before 6:00 AM, I took a taxi to the central 'Plaza de Armas' (there is one in every city, a remnant of the Spanish conquerors), found a hostel and signed up to tour the Kuelap fortress ruins. After a bumpy, dusty three hour minibus ride that wound up the side of the mountain, we arrived to the top (3,000m) where the ruins reside.

The construction of the ruins began in 500 AD by the local Chachapoyans, and were still being worked on until conflict with the Inca's forced abandonment in 1400 AD. The fort is in a state of decay, although certain areas have been reconstructed using traditional materials and techniques. Lots of human skeletal remains have been found on the site, buried in the fortress walls and in the floors of the houses. A pretty interesting few hours....

More photos here

Santa Cruz trek, Huaraz, Peru

Back at altitude in Huaraz (3000m), a town of 90,000 people nested at the feet of the 'Cordillera Blanca' mountain range. With twenty-two peaks over 6,000m, it is the highest mountain range outside of the Himalayas, and the town is blessed with some amazing views. Still not bored with trekking I signed up for a four-day/three-night trek through the mountain ranges.

Day 1.
We set off around 6:00 for a three hour ride to the entrance of the 'Parque National Huascaran', stopping off for photos at a high-altitude lake and the view at a mountain pass at 4800m.

Then back down to the town of Vaqueria (3600m) where after a quick lunch we set off on the trail. Trailing a convoy of mules (carrying tents, sleeping bags and food, the rest of the equipment on my back) we made steady progress along mostly flat land. Water was taken from the many rivers that meandered via the trail, nice not to have to lug around litres of store bought water. We arrived at our first camp site (3870m) in the mid afternoon, I spent the rest of the afternoon sprawled out on the grass reading and watching the clouds pass the mountain range.

Day 2.
Up soon after dawn, followed by a quick breakfast, we set off on the second day of trekking. Constantly uphill, we eventually arrived at a mountain range we were destined to cross.

 The trail zig-zagged up the face of the mountain range and it was hard going due to the steepness of the trail. After a lot of sweating I reached the top and passed through 'Punta Union' at 4750m. The view to the Atlantic side of the range (from where I came) and the Pacific side (where I was heading) was amazing!

I spent an hour at the top, enjoying the view and resting, before I continued downhill to the next camp site. On the Pacific side the weather turned ominous, with grey clouds filling the skies behind me. Luckily the rain held off for the afternoon, I was awoken during the night to a brief shower but remained dry in my tent.

Day 3.
I awoke to grey, overcast skies and a slight drizzle. The camp site was quickly packed up in case the skies opened up, by we were lucky to get by with only a slight 30 minute shower. Unfortunately due to the bad weather I was unable to trek up to the nearby lookout, but had to settle with another solid 4-5 hours of amazing scenery to the next campsite.

Only in this case I was ahead of the guide (and the rest of the group) and continued for another two hours all the way to the bottom of the mountain. I waited 45 minutes until I realised no-one was coming, so I set back off up the mountain. Not long before dusk I found camp, where I made a coffee and felt much better about things. It is nice to have a tent and hot water ready when you need it....
The final night was spent metres away from a rushing river and a small waterfall, it doesn't quite beat the sounds of the waves crashing to shore but it is up there!

Day 4.
Slightly more relaxed today, only another two and a half hours downhill (deja-vu...) to the end of the trek. From there it was merely a matter of taking a station wagon, then a mini-bus, then a taxi back to Huaraz. A stunning few days....

Lots more photos of mountains and trails here

Lima, Peru

Back on the coast and down to sea level after 2 months at altitude, and nothing but overcast skies. I'm staying in the upper class neighbourhood of Miraflores, walking around it feels like I could be back in Australia. Lots of parks, manicured lawns, leafy streets and western shops. The local supermarket even sells an assortment of domestic Australian beers; VB, Fosters, Crown Lager and Carlton Cold. I could even buy Tim Tams if I needed!

I spent a few days in Lima relaxing and wandering the streets after a hectic few weeks in Boliva and Peru, the nights aren't as cold now that I'm (temporarily) not at altitude but the lack of sunshine and clear skies will take some getting used to.

Fingers crossed the skies clear as I head further north so I can spend some quality time on one of the many Peruvian beaches.

More photos here

Ballestas Islands, Peru

Another early morning, this time to the coastal town of Paracas where I was to visit the Ballestas Islands, also know as the poor man's Galapagos. It was an eerie sensation to drive past endless sand dunes blanketed in thick fog, especially after having brilliant sunshine almost all the way through Bolivia and Peru.

On the three hour boat ride where I saw tens of thousands of birds (mostly pelicans and boobys), several sea lions, penguins and dolphins. The clouds didn't clear the whole time but the seas were calm and I enjoyed the tour around the islands, where huge amounts of guano are currently being mined.

More photos here

Huacachina, Peru

My next stop was at the tiny oasis town called Huacachina. I could walk around town in under 5 minutes, so there wasn't much else to do than jump in a sand buggy, tear around the dunes and try my hand at sand boarding.

I knew I was in for a wild ride when the buggy that arrived had leaf springs front and rear, not to mention a driver with a crazed look in his eye, but it was great fun. I'm pretty certain I will be finding sand in my hair for the remaining three and a half months of my journey, the perils of letting my hair grow long.

More photos here

Colca Canyon, Peru

From Cuzco I caught another freezing bus (complete with ice on the inside of the windows) to the town of Arequipa. Dominated by the volcano 'El Misti' (5800m) we spent the night before leaving the next morning at 3:00 AM to Colca Canyon for a three day hike. At 4160m deep, it has twice the depth of the Grand Canyon and is the deepest canyon in the world.

Day 1.
After a much needed coffee and lots of bread rolls, our first stop was at 'Cruz del Condor', a series of concrete lookouts built on the edge of the Colca Canyon. What followed was an amazing display of the grandeur of nature, when as many as 15 condors glided along the canyon walls, riding the hot air currents generated by the morning sun for over an hour. Unbelievable to get so close to such amazing birds!

We then arrived at Cabanaconde where we began our 1200m descent to our first overnight stay. The deepest part of the canyon was still 35km down river, and we descended at a leisurely pace in three hours. The rest of the afternoon was spent relaxing, reading and sleeping in the balmy weather.

Day 2.
We awoke late and set off to 'The Oasis', it was another easy walk over 'Peruvian flat ground' (constantly up and down, on average it is flat). After 3-4 four hours we arrived to our second overnight stay, a bunch of bungalows surrounded by manicured lawns, pal trees and a really refreshing pool, fed from the nearby river. Again it was a relaxing afternoon, spent reading and listening to music.

Day 3.
What goes down must come up, so at 5:00, we set off to climb 1200m we descended on the first day. It was still dark when we left but after 45 minutes twilight came, by the time it was 7:00 I was back at the top, basking in the morning sun. Another relatively easy walk (compared to what I have done recently) and we walked another 15 minutes to a well deserved breakfast.

Off we went back to Arequipa, stopping at a few places on the way. One place, Colca Valley, was a stunningly gorgeous view of terraced farmlands and scenery, easily one of the most beautiful views on my trip so far, and so unexpected.

We arrived back to Arequipa in heavy traffic around 5:00 PM, due to the start of the city's independence celebrations. Off on another bus tonight, heading towards the coast of Peru. Hopefully warmer weather will follow...

More photos here

Machu Picchu, Peru

The day had finally arrived...

Up at 4:20 AM, we arrived to the bottom checkpoint (2000m A.S.L) just before the opening time of 5:00 AM, and already a line of people had begun to form. Minutes later the gates were open, and after a short queue getting my ticket checked I was on my way!

With a head torch to guide me in the darkness I made my way up the endless steps (I was told over 2800) for 35 strenuous minutes, I arrived at the top checkpoint (2400m A.S.L) out of breath and drenched in sweat, and waited for the main gates to open at 6:00 AM.

When the finally did I rushed inside to get my first awe-inspiring view of the ancient ruins, it did not disappoint!

I ran around taking photos before our official guided tour started. The history of the ruins is quite interesting, and we were led around the significant sites before we were left to explore on our own.

During this time the sun peaked over the surrounding mountains, the view was simply breathtaking.

I walked around for several hours before heading up to the sun gate. From there it was back to the main area and off to climb Machu Picchu Mountain (3200m A.S.L). If the first 400m was tough, it was nothing to climbing the next 800m of very steep steps to the incredible view of the summit. In the heat of the sun I was soon completely drenched in sweat, not surprisingly I drank over four litres of water that day! I sat on a rock overlooking Machu Picchu for close to an hour, until I was sufficiently recovered to climb back down the steps to the ruins.

Late in the day, it was time for a rest. I lay down on one of the numerous grassy terraces and had what was probably the greatest view for a power nap I have ever had. In the late afternoon I wandered around a little more, taking my last view of the incredible place before heading back down the mountain for some much needed rest.

I arrived back to Aguas Calientes around 6:00 PM after spending nearly 12 hours on the mountain, Machu Picchu lived up to expectations and more!

More photos here

Inca Jungle Trek, Peru

From Cuzco I set off on a four day/three night adventure trek, the forth day spent visiting the world renowned site of Machu Picchu.

Day 1.
We set off from Cuzco and made our way past Ollantambo and the Sacred Valley, where we stopped at Abra Malaga (4200m A.S.L) and set off downhill on our mountain bikes. Very similar to 'The Death Road' in Bolivia, it was an exhilarating downhill ride through amazing scenery.

The road was paved all the way and is much wider than it's Bolivian counterpart, but it was a great rush to scream down the mountain road. We finished four hours later around 1200m A.S.L and drove further on to the small dusty town of Santa Maria.

After a late lunch I changed into my 'beach wear' for a 90 minute attempt at white water rafting. Leading the way at the front of the rubber dinghy it was much more fun that I was expecting (I was told by other travellers not to get my hopes up) and trying to navigate the Level 2 rapids was great fun. By the end of the trip I was completely soaked, and we had descended another 200m. Great start to the tour.

Day 2.
The next stage was supposed to be a nine hour trek through the jungle and along the ancient Inca Trail. The next day we set off on a very leisurely walk, seeming to stop at expensive stalls (each complete with a monkey tethered nearby to the delight of tourists, disgusting) and rest more than we walked! I quickly grew impatient, I was expecting a decent walk but it was nothing of the sort. We did walk along 500m of the original Inca trail, and while the view was great it was only for a short while.

After a very long lunch we set off once again at a slow pace and stopped at a small stream feeding the larger river nearby, it was time for a refreshing swim after a day of hiking and sweating. It was ice cold but it was amazing to laze in the river and watch the sun turn the mountains to gold, easily the highlight of the day.

We stopped once again at some nearby hot springs, eventually reaching Santa Maria by catching to a ride in the back of a truck. Our guide pushed getting taxis but after our insistence on hiking he talked a local into giving us a lift.

Day 3.
A short drive from where we stayed was the next 'adventure' of the tour, zip-lining! After a brief safety lesson we climbed a nearby hill to the first zip line. A nice way to get started, the short ride gave a great view of the local mountain ranges and of the river below. The second line was over 1100m, 'one of the longest' in South America. Again it afforded a great view but I didn't get the adrenaline rush I was expecting. The last two lines were the same again, criss-crossing the river. We arrived at the end of the last zip line to a suspended wooden platform where we had to rappel back down to the ground.

We left in a van once more and soon arrived at a hydro-electric power plant near the town of Aguas Calientes. After lunch we walked along a still-used train line, past the gorgeous Urubamba river and in the shadows of the adjacent mountains either side.

We caught our first glimpse of the ruins of Machu Picchu as we walked three hours to the charming (but very touristy) town of Aguas Calientes. After dinner we had an early night, as the next day we were to awake very early in the morning to trek to our final destination, the epic Machu Picchu....

More photos here

Football, Peru

Today I attended a Peruvian football match between Cuzco (the home team) and Lima. The quality of football was well above what I was expecting, some great footwork and some nicely taken goals were on offer.

The supporters for both teams were very passionate, the riot police earned their money protecting the opposition players and the referees from projectiles (riot shield tunnel) but weren't quick enough to stop a bunch of away supporters from breaking through the gates at half-time and running down into the changing rooms.

Cuzco just held on to win the match 2-1, and I made it out of the stadium and back into town without getting stabbed or being involved in any riots, always a good end to the day.

Pics taken from my phone

Isla del Sol, Bolivia

Isla del Sol (Island of the Sun) is an island on the southern end of Lake Titicaca in Bolivia. At 3800m A.S.L it is also the largest lake in South America. Straight from another lucky bus journey from Rurrenabaque to La Paz I continued on to Copacabana, a small town on the banks of Lake Titicaca. As soon as I arrived I caught a leisurely ferry across to Isla del Sol, where the Incans believe the Sun God was born.

After lugging my huge backpack up very steep winding steps I managed to find some cheap accommodation and explored the southern end of the island. I spent the afternoon navigating the rocky trails, and walked to the lookout at 4077m for an amazing sunset.

I awoke the next morning at 5:00 to walk the 16km round trip to the Northern end of the island, home to some interesting archaeological ruins. I set off under a full moon, rarely needing my head torch unless I passed under the shadows of trees or buildings. I made good time and was rewarded for my early start with a stunning sunrise.

I passed some ancient ruins, the site of the birth of the Incan Sun God and past a ceremonial sacrificial altar. Very interesting walk. I returned to my hostel exhausted but exhilarated, had a much needed coffee and returned to Copacabana.

The first week of August celebrates Bolivian Independence, so I hiked up the central hill along with hundreds of locals for a great view of the city. Unlike the locals, I did not get roaring drunk nor did I get blessed by having an live armadillo rubbed all over my body.

It was time to leave Bolivia after having spent a great six weeks there, only two weeks more than my visa allowed! It was a stressful 15 minutes at the border control, but I managed to make it to Peru without being detained!

More photos here