I was already sweating from the ride to the trail entrance, withing twenty minutes of starting the uphill climb I was absolutely drenched, sweat dripping from my face, arms and legs. Not a good start but it would become a familiar state during the following six days. If the constant sweat didn't displace all the insect repellent than the amazingly refreshing swims in the adjacent rivers would. Every morning I would emerge with insect bites scattered like buckshot on my legs and feet, thankfully they didn't itch and hopefully weren't caused by malaria-carrying mosquitoes. No chills or aches so far....
The first three days we covered approximately 21 kilometres via muddy trails through lush jungles along the crystal clear and bracingly cold river Buritaca. At the end of each mornings trek to the next camp we were able to swim under waterfalls and in rock pools formed as the river wound from the mountains to the sea. Something to look forward to each morning and my favourite part of the day, it was also a relief to be able to give my horrific clothes a rinse. Our accommodation was a mix of hammocks and open-air beds, covered with fly screens as a necessity. Most meals consisted heavily of fresh fruit (pineapple, watermelon, papaw, bananas and oranges) which was a very welcome change from my diet of the last couple of weeks.
On the fourth day we arrived at the base to Ciudad Perdida. I climbed the 1800 steps (from 600m A.S.L to1200m A.S.L) and began to explore the amazing ruins. The site completely surpassed my expectations, it felt like I was discovering an ancient civilisation, such was the feeling of remoteness given by the expanse of thick jungle surrounding the area. Only the small army base at the top of the ruins spoiled the atmosphere, a remnant of the areas violent past.
After spending a few hours wandering the site it was time to begin the return trek. It was another two and a half days of sweat and insects, interspersed with more swims in the river. It was on the return journey that I learnt of an explosion that occurred in Santa Marta a few days earlier. I was told that a local supermarket (close to where I was staying) did not pay the required protection money, and as a reprisal a bomb was set off outside killing three people and wounding fifty-one. A disgusting act of greed and cowardice, another reason to get out of Santa Marta as soon as possible.
I was lucky with the weather, we trekked the first few mornings in overcast weather, but the latter days were spent in brilliant sunshine. We were fortunate enough to have made it to camp by the time it rained every afternoon and night. Apart from the oppressive heat and humidity it wasn't an overly difficult trek, especially stretched out to six days, but it definitely a great experience and a great end to my time in Colombia.
