An insight into the genesis of my trip to South America. A few years ago I was in Darwin to attend the wedding of my older brother Tarrant. Sitting in his living room, watching TV with me, was my younger brother Hayden, who had very recently returned from a long tour through Canada, the US and South America.
We were watching a generic nature documentary when some footage of 'Salto Angel' came on screen, the tallest waterfall in the world, located in the heart of Venezuela.
"I have been there, it was pretty cool" - Hayden (paraphrased)
While watching the spectacular imagery the seeds were sown, one day I was going to travel South America and see it for myself.
And so it was, four years later, that I found myself in Ciudad Bolivar airport, waiting to board a 20 seater plane to Canaima national park. Fittingly, the original impetuous for my trip would be my last big adventure in South America. After travelling for two hundred and forty-eight days, traveling from one end of the continent to the other, I will soon find myself heading back to Santiago (and real life) to fly home.
But not quite yet...
Day 1.
The plane arrived amid a procession of much smaller single engined craft, and before long I was in the air over Venezuela. It was a short uneventful flight to Canaima national park. After a while my tour guide arrived and took me to the camp, arriving just in time to get to shelter before the skies opened and the heavy rain began. After half and hour it was blue skies once more and I joined the rest of my group as we set off up the Kerep river in a small motorized canoe.
It was five beautiful hours before we made it to the next camp, very slow going against the strong river currents and sometimes shallow passages, but gradually the scenery changed from flat lands and scrub to one of lush jungles and awe inspiring tepuis. From a bend in the river I caught my first glimpse of what I came all this way to see, Angel Falls.
Not long after we pulled up on the stony river shore close the overnight camp, I changed into some hiking boots and set up to the lookout. Half an hour later I was lying on a huge slab of rock, gazing up at the enormous falls as the sun set behind it. To be honest I was initially disappointed, the amount of water coming over the falls was much less than I was expecting (rainy season is July-August), but as I lay and watched my awe grew and as I left in the failing light back to camp I was definitely impressed.
As a nice finish to the day we ate a hearty meal of roast chicken, cooked over an open fire. After that there was little to do but to relaxed in a hammock (my bed for the night) as once again the skies opened and down came a torrent of rain. A peaceful way to be lulled to sleep after a very satisfying day.
Day 2.
Up at day break, I took one last look at Angel Falls, slightly stronger for the overnight rain and partially draped in a low mist that completely obscured some of the surrounding rock formations. After a quick breakfast I was back in the canoe to head back downstream. A much quicker journey as we were traveling with the current, within a few hours we were back to the original camp. After relaxing for the remainder of the late morning I had lunch then set off across the nearby lagoon for a closer at the nearby falls.
We crosses the small stretch of water then set off up a small path that led to a natural opening behind the thunderous falls. Crossing through the water-curtain revealed a long cavern that stretched to length of the falls. Absolutely stunning! Hard to put into words how amazing it was to walk the length of the natural formation, hemmed in by a shear rock wall on one side and a magnificent cascade of water on the side. Once again, some very primal in being so close to such immense power.
We left to another nearby waterfall and once again I was able to walk behind the falls. Again, due to the dry weather the amount of water flowing was significantly down from the maximum, the river was less than half the width of peak flow. I would definitely return during the wet season. I returned to camp to dry off, ending another unforgettable day.
Day 3.
A slow morning in Canaima, little to do but wait for the plane back to Ciudad Bolivar. I went for a swim then returned to find my plane was scheduled to leave a few hours earlier than I was told. I quickly packed my things and headed to the airport .Awaiting me was a four seater, single engine light plane, with an empty front seat unoccupied. I squeezed in next to the pilot, the secondary yoke inches from my knees and the rudder controls almost touching my feet. That is more like it! I was a leisurely and scenic flight back to Ciudad Bolivar, I much preferred flying in a tiny plane. As a bonus I was 'dropped off' metres from the main airport building, a great way to end an amazing trip!
More photos here
